First wake board build

[Brettn5y]

Hi,
I'm attempting my first wake board build.
I was planning on a 150cm long board similar in style to a liquid force TAO.

I'm in Australia, so I locally sourced paulownia timber planks (12mmx100mmx1500) which I will cut into 2cm vertical strips, glue and make my core from that.
I have read quite a lot on the forums here but was wondering if anyone could offer some advice?

When thinning the tail and tips, I assume I'm thinning down what will eventually be the topside of the board? I will be using a router to do the rough thinning and then finish off with a sander.

Do you generally use the same type of resin for the poured rails that you would use for the mat?

I was planning on building a press, instead of vacuum bagging the board, so if I did go that way what percentage of spring back might there be, I've read for a rocker table with vacuum you can expect 50-60% spring back. Would a press be much less than this, like 20%?

If I do vacuum the core, should I do the top first on a rocker table, and then vacuum bag the bottom? I have seen a few examples where people have vacuumed the bottom on a rocker table and the mat has creased...

I'll post some pics as I progress.

Thanks

[downunder]

Im in Perth.

Starting a HF board build next week. U checked this forum?

http://boardbuilders-forum.1077691.n5.nabble.com/

Your first enemy is not doing a KISS build. Thats my only advice at this point.

All the rest is covered in here or above forum.

D.

[downunder]

Hi,
I'm attempting my first wake board build.
I was planning on a 150cm long board similar in style to a liquid force TAO.

I'm in Australia, so I locally sourced paulownia timber planks (12mmx100mmx1500) which I will cut into 2cm vertical strips, glue and make my core from that.
I have read quite a lot on the forums here but was wondering if anyone could offer some advice?

- no need to cut

When thinning the tail and tips, I assume I'm thinning down what will eventually be the topside of the board? I will be using a router to do the rough thinning and then finish off with a sander.

- belt sander only, router need a jig

Do you generally use the same type of resin for the poured rails that you would use for the mat?


- not me. Check my builds


I was planning on building a press, instead of vacuum bagging the board, so if I did go that way what percentage of spring back might there be, I've read for a rocker table with vacuum you can expect 50-60% spring back. Would a press be much less than this, like 20%?

- no

If I do vacuum the core, should I do the top first on a rocker table, and then vacuum bag the bottom? I have seen a few examples where people have vacuumed the bottom on a rocker table and the mat has creased...

- yes

I'll post some pics as I progress.

Thanks

[Brettn5y]

Thanks for the advice. I've checked the other forums and there is a lot of info, so thank you for that.
Just picked up 600gm triaxial locally and will experiment with some scrap plywood to test results with heating etc.

[downunder]

Triax FG?

Forget about it. That is almost 1.2kg of glass with resin. Plus, really difficult to wet out.

Carbon on the other hand is way more better.

I hope you know the stiffness comes from the core thickness, cubed. So 2mm diff in a core equals heaps more than 1mm, ie 10mm^3 is 1000 but 12^3 is 1728! Which is 70% more stiff in theory.



D.

[Brettn5y]

I'm after flex, as this is a park wake board.
I though almost all cable wake boards were using triaxial glass, but maybe I got that wrong?

1.2kg does sound awfully heavy though... And that's not counting the top and bottom sheets, inserts and the bindings I'll be bolting on....

I'd better do some more research

[Brettn5y]

I just checked on the junk supply website and they supply 22oZ triaxial for the mat to use with their wake board package.
I will weight my current wake board and see what it tips the scales at.

[downunder]

12mm Paulownia thinned on tips as in here:

viewtopic.php?f=107&t=2387451

does not flex much. With any triax (FG or CF), that would be a bulldozer board

Riding the above board for last 4 years, it says a lot about strength. But, that depends on rider weight and other variables.

Good luck.

[Brettn5y]

Thank you Downunder. I've had a good look at all of those.... Interesting.
I'll thin my first core down to 9mm in the centre, with tips of around 3mm. I'll have a crack with the triaxial as I already own it, so I may as well use it.

As I have two cores so I'll do this one first, and my second with +/-45 double bias with a slightly thicker centre, but the same thickness tip/tail.

I weight about 90kg, so I don't want to underestimate and snap a board after a few airs.

I've been trying to find PU locally to make rails, but I noticed you said you used epoxy with PU glue mixed in??? Was it strong?

Amazing boards you have built there by the way

[rynhardt]

I'm after flex, as this is a park wake board.
I though almost all cable wake boards were using triaxial glass, but maybe I got that wrong?

1.2kg does sound awfully heavy though... And that's not counting the top and bottom sheets, inserts and the bindings I'll be bolting on....

I'd better do some more research

My LF Harley with wet Raph bindings weighs about 5kg. Triax glass with foam core, grind base. A hybrid design (wood core) will be a bit heavier.