Pocket Board foil attachment method

[RichR2]

I should have added, I ride exclusively on the sea

[downunder]

Well,

It does look like your inserts are protected by the foam.

Maybe water can't get in. The problem with this inserts is contact with a different grade bolts, I think.

My rusted off completely after about 2y, not used BH board much.

[grandeand]

this seems like a good way to make the insert for the straps. obviously being careful not to screw too much, otherwise you will break the table...

[grandeand]

And this, but I would put the inserts first and then laminate.

[downunder]

You are still in inserts phase?

Only 4 are needed man. Low expense comparing to consumables used in board building. If u have no tools, a vac pump, rocker table etc that can easily be $500-1000.
Board building is expensive hobby from the beginning. The more boards one can make and sell, the better value becomes.

Happy Easter!

[grandeand]

hello ....
there is still talk of inserts because now, (at least in Italy) everything is closed and there is nothing to do and above all, a way to go and buy.
I have already made a table with volume 135 # 46 # 6cm..
I have used the 5-hole inserts without any problem, and through holes for the column.
central longitudinal member and pawlonia block for attachment to the column.
2 # 200 grams of carbon above and below plus 1 # 200 grams of glass.
all aspirated with vacuum pump.

[downunder]

Here:

https://www.junksupply.com/

[stevez]

This is what I do using t-nuts. It's low tech and cheap and not too difficult. But it's pretty strong enables you to get high precision without high precision tools.
I've used it on the last couple of pocket board I'm using where the bolts are countersunk and need to line up exactly.

Here is part of a paulownia wingfoil board I'm building (covid downtime), but it's exactly the same as I've done for the paulownia pocket boards.

1. Drill oversize holes, but narrower than the flange of the t-nut and slightly tapering.
2. Put the base plate on the board and bolt the base plate where you want it to go. Make sure the bolts go in straight. So we use the baseplate to get perfect alignment. Tighten fully so the t-nuts are in as far as they can go.
3. Unscrew bolts to remove the baseplate. Take care not to dislodge the t-nuts as you do.
5. Cover the area around the holes on both sides with masking tape and remove the tape over the holes themselves.
6. Mix some resin with filler (glass or whatever) so that it's a bit thickened still slightly runny.
7. Pour the thickened resin into the holes.
8. When it's set a little, screw the bolts in from the other side (the deck side) and leave them there for a while.
9. When it's set a little more, unscrew the bolts. Wipe off the epoxy. Coat the bolts in vaseline. Screw them back in, this time from the base plate side.
10. Every so turn the bolts a little to make sure they still turn.
11. After an hour or two, when the epoxy is sure to be not hard enough to not flow at all, remove the bolts.
12. Remove the masking tape.
13. Wait for epoxy to cure.
14. Carry on with the rest of the board build, glass over the t-nuts.
You end up with the t-nut being fully bound into the wood with an epoxy plug.