depower lines and splicing

[Herman]

The bungy stops the hollow core collapsing and improves cleat grip. You could add a different core in the cleating section of rope if you did not want the puckering!

Faklord's input was on the money imho!

PS If you want something nice on the hands you could also consider a covered line and just do an inline splice with the core and tuck or whip the cover!

[knot_moving]

The bungy stops the hollow core collapsing and improves cleat grip. You could add a different core in the cleating section of rope if you did not want the puckering!

Faklord's input was on the money imho!

PS If you want something nice on the hands you could also consider a covered line and just do an inline splice with the core and tuck or whip the cover!

I used a covered line on one attempt. One has to be very careful how you blend in the cover where you make the loop for the quick release. In my case the QR would once in a great while hang up on the whipping I used to finish off the transition between cover and the core that formed the loop.

So in my opinion - you should be very careful using a covered line and only use it if you are very good at burying the cover into the core at the point of transition.

[Herman]

If the covered line is only the top section it is nowhere near the qr. However burring a cover does cause extra bulk and you need to check that your bar does not jam on the tapered or whipped section of Centreline if you have it below the cleat. To me covered line does not seem worth the hassle but I have seen it used by some racer types who ride more on CL adjusting with line in hand.

I do think it is worth experimenting with hollow core fillers if you are using cleats and are experiencing some slippage problems.

I did use a covered top section a long time ago whilst experimenting with different setups but I used a fisherman knot just below the cleat with and without insurance stitching and this worked without problem.

[foilholio]

You could use a splice trimmer in lieu of a cleat.

[longwhitecloud]

Is there a bar and lines company? (That don't make kites)

Needs to be one because I would buy this instead of the low life kite companies that try and design with planned obsolescence , expensive propriatory parts and non compatibility issues these days.

For depowers it would be cool to pull the tail all the way back and up through the deeper.s length.. double thickness.. a backup core...

Hmmm wonder if this possible..

Rope and stainless is best.. the increasing use of moulded plastic in bar setups will result in shorter lasting equipment that falls apart/ unsafe after some time of degridation of moulded plastic material properties.

I have put locking slices is loads of 5mm dymeema.. it us not too hard.

What was the best chicken loop with a simple tie a rope on method/ larks head attachment..?

[faklord]

Is there a bar and lines company? (That don't make kites)

Needs to be one because I would buy this instead of the low life kite companies that try and design with planned obsolescence , expensive propriatory parts and non compatibility issues these days.

For depowers it would be cool to pull the tail all the way back and up through the deeper.s length.. double thickness.. a backup core...

Hmmm wonder if this possible..

Rope and stainless is best.. the increasing use of moulded plastic in bar setups will result in shorter lasting equipment that falls apart/ unsafe after some time of degridation of moulded plastic material properties.

I have put locking slices is loads of 5mm dymeema.. it us not too hard.

What was the best chicken loop with a simple tie a rope on method/ larks head attachment..?

https://www.kiteattitude.fr/en/14-freestyle-wave-bars ?

[faklord]

For depowers it would be cool to pull the tail all the way back and up through the deeper.s length.. double thickness.. a backup core...

Hmmm wonder if this possible
.....

What was the best chicken loop with a simple tie a rope on method/ larks head attachment..?

This is exactly what I have done here:

Spliced loop (inside quick release) with very long buried tail (full length of bar throw) also lock stitched over full length but could use a Brummell lock). Haven’t used it yet but will soon.
De-power line can be replaced using an Allen key.
Inside of q/r can be seen here https://www.kiteattitude.fr/en/blog/tut ... -version-2

It’s a short q/r. Easy to reset. Kite attitude seem to encourage DIY builds & maintenance.

[foilholio]

You can get some bar parts a lot cheaper off aliexpress.

[tkaraszewski]

This is exactly what I have done here:
3EB3AD98-091B-446B-B7F5-294305F33761.jpeg
Spliced loop (inside quick release) with very long buried tail (full length of bar throw) also lock stitched over full length but could use a Brummell lock). Haven’t used it yet but will soon.
De-power line can be replaced using an Allen key.
Inside of q/r can be seen here https://www.kiteattitude.fr/en/blog/tut ... -version-2

It’s a short q/r. Easy to reset. Kite attitude seem to encourage DIY builds & maintenance.

I did a similar thing here. Depower line looped through the North chicken loop (which normally has two lines running out of it), and then a long-bury splice up the bar throw. Lock-stitched to keep it coming apart.

[foilholio]

Using rope that thick you can just tie knots in it.