Here you can exchange your experience and datas about your home build boards
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kriskris
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Postby kriskris » Tue Apr 28, 2020 2:15 am
I am thinking about building a small strapless foilboard. EPS or XPS Foam with carbon skins 12 oz on bottom and 2 x 12oz on top with extra reinforcement for foil attachment and wrapped rails. Probably cedar wooden block built in to strenghten this are too. Dimensions approx. 32 x 17 x 2 inch. Basically slightly scaled down Slingshot Dwarfcraft. My understanding is that loads on board are carried mainly by the carbon fibre skins. Is addition of wooden stringer necessary? Would it provide significant strenght or stifness? Is this lay up sufficient? Any words of advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Kris
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BWD
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Postby BWD » Tue Apr 28, 2020 2:44 am
If using eps or xps I would definitely use a stringer for a foilboard. For a short surfboard probably not. But the foil adds compression loads to mount the foil, cantilever loads to ride the foil, and shock loads when you run aground. These light foams cannot take that.
If you do rails mounted foil, do a double stringer setup where each box is in a stringer. If simple 4 holes/inserts, put fat stringers in with the holes or inserts in the stringers. Stringers do not have to run nose to tail.
You can shape stringerless and route or cut slots for short stringers in just in the foil/stance area.
- These users thanked the author BWD for the post (total 4):
- kriskris (Tue Apr 28, 2020 4:24 am) • kollac (Tue Apr 28, 2020 12:38 pm) • BalsaMichel (Tue Apr 28, 2020 12:49 pm) • Kamikuza (Fri Sep 04, 2020 12:05 am)
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kriskris
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- Local Beach: Crack Park
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Postby kriskris » Wed Apr 29, 2020 1:48 am
Thanks BWD. So if 2 stringers are incorporated (the way you suggest) do you think my planned lay up schedule would be sufficient?
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RalfsB
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Postby RalfsB » Wed Apr 29, 2020 8:13 am
Yes, I also found 2 stringers to be the most practical. Stringer can be few mm wider than the hole, like if you are using 6mm screws then stringers can be 10-12mm wide, full board depth, length like 5-10 cm back from the aft hole and 10-15 cm forward from the front hole. To make stringers more stress resistant you can laminate some glass or carbon around them. It is convenient to put some bronze barrel nuts (or something similar) into the stringers so you can use shorter screws and do not have screws going all the way through the board.
Regarding the layup schedule, you can put an extra sheet of glass/carbon cloth on the top and the bottom so that it overlaps the stringer area.
Here is a picture of a carbon-laminated stringer I used in one of my projects
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downunder
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Postby downunder » Wed Apr 29, 2020 10:08 am
Did u make the carbon plate as well?
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RalfsB
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Postby RalfsB » Wed Apr 29, 2020 12:09 pm
downunder wrote: ↑Wed Apr 29, 2020 10:08 am
Did u make the carbon plate as well?
No, that is a commercial KFbox-to-plate adapter, made by Alpine
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TomW
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Postby TomW » Fri May 01, 2020 6:14 pm
If you laminate 400g of uni D carbon 150mm wide on each side you don't need a stringer. I find it easier to do this. I tacoed a foil board with a 3mm central stringer, it didn't have enough uni d carbon on each side.
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windmaker
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Postby windmaker » Sat May 02, 2020 4:19 pm
RalfsB wrote: ↑Wed Apr 29, 2020 8:13 am
Yes, I also found 2 stringers to be the most practical. Stringer can be few mm wider than the hole, like if you are using 6mm screws then stringers can be 10-12mm wide, full board depth, length like 5-10 cm back from the aft hole and 10-15 cm forward from the front hole. To make stringers more stress resistant you can laminate some glass or carbon around them. It is convenient to put some bronze barrel nuts (or something similar) into the stringers so you can use shorter screws and do not have screws going all the way through the board.
Regarding the layup schedule, you can put an extra sheet of glass/carbon cloth on the top and the bottom so that it overlaps the stringer area.
Here is a picture of a carbon-laminated stringer I used in one of my projects
06.jpg
Doesn't water get into the wood from the screw holes?
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TomW
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Ozone Hyperlink V1 7m
Hyperlink V2 9m, 13m
Concept Air Wave 4,5m
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Postby TomW » Sat May 02, 2020 11:16 pm
I'll say it again, you don't need a stringer of wood. If you are using 20 -30 kg m3 foam, put a 80kg m3 foam block that's about 25cm long and 16cm wide under the mast. From bottom to deck, the whole thickness. This is primarily to withstand the compression of screwing the mast plate . You have to have solid epoxy or plastic plugs where the mast bolts/ inserts will be. Use 400 g of uni d CF about 15-16 cm wide on each side. That will give you a strong beam. Then add lamination with rail wraps, the schedule is depending on your foam density, but if using 30 kg m3 foam, then 2 x 6 oz. Glass top and bottom.
Because you need to make what is basically a cantilevered beam, your laminate should be symmetrical top and bottom.
If you are going to add footstraps and do jumping you'll need to beef it up.
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JakeFarley
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Postby JakeFarley » Sun May 03, 2020 12:04 am
Been thinking about building a low tech foilboard using 2" EPS with a cross hatch wood (probably poplar) stringer as below. Simple 6 oz. fiberglass epoxy layup with a wood veneer bottom and a top pad. Any thoughts on this?
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