Use easycomposites.co.uk xcr coating epoxy. No blush. I can de-gas it and pour/ brush on and it gives me nearly perfect finish.RichR2 wrote: ↑Thu May 28, 2020 4:19 pmFor years I've used SP115 resin for builds but it is a bit pricey so switched to easy composites EL2. It's fine for laminating but has been a PITA for hot coats. With SP115 I just brushed the board off and perfect finish every time, yet with EL2 it's as if I have a patches wax resist on the board. I've tried acetone, soap and water, never touching the board except with gloved hands, roughing up the surface with 60 grit, 100 grit, 240 grit, temp in workshop is 20C...whatever I do I still cant get a surface without fish eyes of varying sizes. Finishing boards is taking way longer and often requires an extra hot coat/sanding which I hate. Any ideas?
I made a simple one using a thick plastic water jug. Upside down on a board, seal the edge with seal tape, air evac hole in from edge litte hole to that hole in from top. Google it.
It's more involved than that.
Nice description!TomW wrote: ↑Tue Jun 02, 2020 9:43 pmIt's more involved than that.
My entire process:
Clean shop, vacuum up everything. Preferably a day before.
I vacuum off the board last on that clean up day.
Don't turn on your vacuum cleaner the day you do the coat. Keep air still.
I put on vinyl gloves.
Wipe off board with tack rag, wipe off board with denatured alcohol ( dna). Use good lint-free paper toweling.
Tape rail. Wipe off with DNA, tack rag again.
Turn off heat in shop.
Mix and degas resin.
Pour on resin, using high quality brush, brush diagonally one way, then the other. Brush rails, brush longitudinally from center, finish with rails.
Get out of shop.
3 hrs later, remove tape from rail and turn on heat to 18c.
The principals are: dust free shop, no air movement, dropping temperature, no hand oils on board, tack rag removes dust stuck to board from static charge, no air bubbles in resin, don't over work brushing that can add bubbles.
New brush every time.jaros wrote: ↑Wed Jun 03, 2020 7:06 amNice description!TomW wrote: ↑Tue Jun 02, 2020 9:43 pmIt's more involved than that.
My entire process:
Clean shop, vacuum up everything. Preferably a day before.
I vacuum off the board last on that clean up day.
Don't turn on your vacuum cleaner the day you do the coat. Keep air still.
I put on vinyl gloves.
Wipe off board with tack rag, wipe off board with denatured alcohol ( dna). Use good lint-free paper toweling.
Tape rail. Wipe off with DNA, tack rag again.
Turn off heat in shop.
Mix and degas resin.
Pour on resin, using high quality brush, brush diagonally one way, then the other. Brush rails, brush longitudinally from center, finish with rails.
Get out of shop.
3 hrs later, remove tape from rail and turn on heat to 18c.
The principals are: dust free shop, no air movement, dropping temperature, no hand oils on board, tack rag removes dust stuck to board from static charge, no air bubbles in resin, don't over work brushing that can add bubbles.
Do you clean the brush for another use or do you use a new brush every time? Thanks!
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