Dont follow that advice for kiting. 1250 is enough and a good size for light wind and learning
Dont follow that advice for kiting. 1250 is enough and a good size for light wind and learning
Wow, this is amazing.
Stabs really do deserve more airtime, they play a bigger role than they are given credit for. Below are some numbers you might find interesting. It is a comparison of a NACA0008 (a typical symmetrical profile) and Inverted S2205 stab (Chose the NACA0008 since it has the same thickness as the S2205, so a close comparison). Stab size is chosen as 460 mm wingspan and 220 cm^2 area. I used your freeride wing (calculated above as the front wing).robke wrote: ↑Fri Dec 11, 2020 7:40 pmIt was an interesting read on Moth @PrfctChaos. The stab has almost as much section drag as the main wing. I'm using inverted stab profile ( I think H105), but on Moth looks like it's non-inverted. And I think you said you use symmetrical profiles.
The way I understand is : noniverted good on high AoA, inverted good on low AoA, symmetrical kinda in between. What do you think?
Well, the new freeride wing is finished and I'm totally stoked on it, does what was expected (decent speed range and pretty low stall speed) and even turns way better than I was expecting for the 750mm wingspan (will not be scared to go even up to 800mm or 850 mm in the future). Had a chance to take it out in underpowered conditions for my 4m peak and some decent swell and messy ocean. The wing did a awesome job of just cruising along through the lowest luls (yes the surf wing would have kept cruising through even lower luls and a bit slower stall speed, but still respectably low minimum cruising speed for this wing) and when catching some swell it speeds up quickly and easily matches the swell speed even for the faster bumps (where the surf wing sometimes struggles to keep up with fast swell). Very happy with the carvability on the swell faces as well.PrfctChaos wrote: ↑Sat Nov 21, 2020 5:29 amI'm a novice to moulding, but recently gave it the first shot on a small fast little Stab. Was super happy with how the stab came out (my new favourite, loose and very little drag). And the process of moulding was surprisingly easy, I was expecting to hit some pitfalls, but nope things just went smoothly. I'm so used to the multiple steps and waiting involved with laminating, that I was totally surprised by how quick and easy it was to just lay up the mould. Then once it was cured the resultant wing just needed a quick trim and sand and it was literally ready to use, felt like I was missing a few steps!!PrfctChaos wrote: ↑Fri Nov 20, 2020 12:23 pmA wing to go fast, one to go slow, one in the middle for freeride. Does it ever end.... I dont know.
I'm making a new replacement freeride wing at the moment, will put up some specs tomorrow. Going for 750mm wingspan and 900cm^2 area. Need a replacement to slot in between the tiny race wing and big wave wing (the current freeride wing gave admirable service, but it is out of date alas).
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Anycase, decided to make the new freeride front wing by moulding it as well. Going for a 750 mm wide wing, 900 sq.cm. And optimised for a pretty highish speed range of 17.5 - 50 Km/h (~10-30 Knots). Hopefully it goes well, the drag values are nice and low in the middle of the range.
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Thanks! Yes the 2 halves of the mould are machined out of wood (it is what I have lying around).salvatoreone wrote: ↑Tue Jan 05, 2021 1:47 amvery nice! Also, very neat fuselage, did you also make it?
So you have machined the wooden a mould? I'm starting to plan a new slightly faster wing than the one that I made previously (shared in this topic). I'll also be experimenting with options other than 3D printing the core as it was a pain in the ass at so many levels. The biggest issue was getting the epoxy stick to PETG plastic. Although I have to admit that the wing has already taken some beating, one tip is completely stripped off the paint due to some hard sand landings but the wing is still perfectly intact so I can't complain at the durability so far.
At this moment I'm still unsure how to do the moulding, do you know any YouTube videos similar to what you've been doing?PrfctChaos wrote: ↑Tue Jan 05, 2021 12:52 pmThanks! Yes the 2 halves of the mould are machined out of wood (it is what I have lying around).salvatoreone wrote: ↑Tue Jan 05, 2021 1:47 amvery nice! Also, very neat fuselage, did you also make it?
So you have machined the wooden a mould? I'm starting to plan a new slightly faster wing than the one that I made previously (shared in this topic). I'll also be experimenting with options other than 3D printing the core as it was a pain in the ass at so many levels. The biggest issue was getting the epoxy stick to PETG plastic. Although I have to admit that the wing has already taken some beating, one tip is completely stripped off the paint due to some hard sand landings but the wing is still perfectly intact so I can't complain at the durability so far.
The fuselage and mast is not my handiwork, wish it was it is a piece of art, it is a Taroa Sword 2 mast (mast and fuse is one piece). This older generation race gear is often veey cheap, but the old race wings can be a pain, so replacing it with a new freeride wing can give it a new lease on life. The race gear is often very strongly and stiffly built.
Maybe it is easy for you to 3d print the mould, since the pieces will be flat and wide (easy base adhesion and not much warping)? And then don't need to worry about adhesion between the epoxy and PETG? If you don't want a solid carbon wing, then can maybe fill the inside with thin (1-2mm foam strips) or thick (cheap) fibreglass, 2 part expanding foam etc... just a few ideas.
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