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Herman
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Postby Herman » Thu Jan 28, 2021 1:24 pm
I think your logic regarding not a strength issue is probably sound. However, you may lose a little stiffness if there’s are any abutments of glue in the vertical plane as these will be acting in the same way as the webb of an I beam, but I doubt that is significant. This is only a quick thought and I am not sure if you have any glued faces in the vertical plane.
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plummet
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Postby plummet » Thu Jan 28, 2021 5:17 pm
Epoxy with colloidal silica does the business. It will be a lot lighter, fill the gaps and bond strongly. Also it makes sense to use the same bonding agent throughout the build. If you already use epoxy for the rest of the build and future builds all you need to do it but the colloidal silica and add it in when you need it. It wont go off over time like gorrilla glue might. The other advantage of using epoxy and colloidal silica when you are using epoxy for the rest of the build is you can potentially bond that section at the same time as the normal layup creating a stronger chemical bond at the joints of connection with the outer skin rather than a mechanical bond with a dissimilar glue.
You should avoid using micro balloons for bonding. These are design for filling and fairing and not bonding. I does not have he strength of colloidal silica.
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RalfsB
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Postby RalfsB » Thu Jan 28, 2021 5:47 pm
PrfctChaos wrote: ↑Sat Jan 09, 2021 12:05 am
In the past Ive used Epoxy, thickened with microballons, between foam and pauwlonia.
May consider Polyurethane as well. Curing time will be quite long though, as in a day or two most likely.
100% agree. Epoxy alone is heavy, when mixed with microspheres it is strong and light. The PU (polyurethane) glue is a great choice too, sticks well to wood and foam and while hardening it is foaming up itself, fills spaces. It needs some moisture to harden; if outside air is not accessible then the surfaces that are being glued can be lightly moistened before applying the glue.
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