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holden
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Postby holden » Tue Mar 02, 2021 1:05 pm
hi folks,
last year i came up with an idea for a bar that i wanted to realize somehow. after almost a year of development the last prototype looks pretty good so i want to share what i came up with.
it is a backline adjuster bar. the principle is based on a cleat made from a liros dc 300 line fixed on one end of the bar and rubber rope stretched to the other. the line i want to trap runs inside the dc300 and thus can be moved to one side but not the other. the cleat can be released by slacking the dc300.
the complete setup is placed inside the bar. operation is on the barends. if you want to power up the adjuster, you pull a little ball on the right end of the bar as far as to your liking. the backlines will shorten. to extend the backlines, you pull the little ball on the left side to release the cleat inside the bar.
h.
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- alpaia (Mon Nov 08, 2021 10:38 pm)
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tkaraszewski
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Postby tkaraszewski » Tue Mar 02, 2021 1:12 pm
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holden
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Postby holden » Tue Mar 02, 2021 1:27 pm
@tkaraszewski: exactly. i've always been fascinated by the principle but newer quite know where to use it. until now. the great advantages are that they are extremly low profile (other than length) and you can release them by pulling in one direction instead of pulling at an angle.
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holden
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Postby holden » Tue Mar 02, 2021 1:29 pm
thats the latest proto type. to be tested on water.
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holden on Tue Mar 02, 2021 1:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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holden
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Postby holden » Tue Mar 02, 2021 1:33 pm
this is how you power it up. the ball grip is fastended to a nylon monofil rod. after you have set the backline length, you push the nylon rod back into the bar.
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holden
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Postby holden » Tue Mar 02, 2021 1:37 pm
as a side hustle i also decided to make my own ball bearing swivel and screw on stopper.
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tkaraszewski
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Postby tkaraszewski » Tue Mar 02, 2021 2:50 pm
Are you 3D printing the small parts?
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holden
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Postby holden » Tue Mar 02, 2021 3:00 pm
yes. i use HT-PLA and put it into the oven for 20 minutes after printing. the backlines are tested up to 100kg and the swivel up to 380kg. both are fine with that weight. i did not explore the breaking point yet.
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alpaia
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Postby alpaia » Mon Nov 08, 2021 10:36 pm
That is so smart ! thanks for your post
I considered this a few month ago but could not get it right, it was either impossible to adjust or too slippery,
and could not find a way to put the rope back in, tried with a bungee but it was getting jammed - so the rod idea is neat.
Also I found the release was not very progressive, and tension was needed it the backlines to get slack, how did youu solve it ?
Could you share a drawing with the length of splicing and internal organization ?
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holden
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Postby holden » Tue Nov 09, 2021 9:48 am
hi @alpaia, thank you.
i have one boabar in use with the sonic 3 13. to be honest, i test the adjuster every once in a while, but this summer there was no need for it on this kite.
it took me quite a while to figure out what lines to use so the boa is tight enough but slides (rather) nicely when pulling the release.
- for the line that goes inside the boa i use the liros Bridle Line, 2mm: https://www.liros.com/catalog/en/bridle ... /?search=1
- for the boa itself i use the liros DC300
- be careful with the connections. the bridle line breaks at 60kg if you just use a regular knot. use knots like in pictures attached.
- the length of the boa, the length of the 2mm bridle line going inside the DC300 is around 10cm. a am afraid i've lost the last pictures i have made before closing.
the rod works quite fine. i've maximized the adjuster travel, so the rod needs to pass the depower rope hole in the middle when you stick it back in. this leads to jamming sometimes since the rod in very few cases does not find the right way past the hole. i will install some kind of guiding seperator when i make the next bar. you can also make the adjusterlength shorter so the rod does not interfer with the depower hole.
i will try to make a sketch that illustrates the setup inside.
h.
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