1.1mm Line Splicing steps - critique me please

[watercamper]

This is my take on how to splice kite lines. I based my method on Andy's video:


As with Andy's video, I also used a 5 cm loop (2.5 cm legs) and a 100 cm tail.

Here are the two tools I used. One is a medium, Daho splicing needle from Green Hat Kiteboarding; https://greenhatkiteboarding.com/produc ... ing-needle. The other is an awl available at the hardware store.

As in his video, you start at the mark that is the farthest from the end of the line. You push the line together to pucker it then insert the needle. Make sure to center the hole.

I then use the loop end of the needle to widen the hole a bit.

Insert the awl into the hole and enlarge it a bit more. You don't need much here and you don't need to strain the line.

Here's the hole.

Push the end of the line through the hole.

Until the first mark goes through. Note: I also marked where the apex of the loop is. You don't have to do this but it helps me see if I am getting all my lines where I want them.

Use the splicing needle as before and then the awl. I like to align the second hole vertically as shown and similar to the main line.

Take your far end of the line and feed it through. I do this on 17m lines with no problems. The other end can also already have a loop. I have a photo of this next.

Inserting a loop instead.

This is what you get after pulling it through.

Make sure there are no twists. That's why I like this method. No twists. I use the awl to hold the loop end while I pull on the other end to snug up the loop. As Andy say, you are probably good to go now.

Now use the awl to open the tail (the bury). I pucker the line a little to make it easier then just draw the awl along the line to open it up.

Continuing the process to open it up.

I've finished opening the tail.

I used some Kevlar scissors to trim the line. Only a bit up near the left of the photo and tapering to the end of the line on the right.

Lay out the bury and mark about 25mm beyond or more.

I move the tail out of the way and insert the splicing needle into the main line just after the splice. You have to pucker the line of course.

Another photo of the beginning.

I've finished the process out to the mark.

Must have had two shots of this.

Position the taper into the loop. Sometimes I use spit to help with this.

I am pulling on the needle. You can see that the taper is being pulled into the center of the line.

I've almost pulled it through.

It is coming out here.

It's out. But notice the little bump just below the loop. We'll get rid of that next.

I use the awl to again hold the loop while I pull on the bury. This gets rid of the little bump.

Now just milk the line with your fingers over the bury and smooth it out. A finished loop end.

A look at the finished taper buried inside. Nice and smooth.

That's it. Let me know what you think.

[Pemba]

It looks great to me, not just the product but also the step by step explanation. I have tried it once myself but didn't manage to get the splicing needle to go through the centre of the line, it kept on snagging and going out of centre. I think you probably need to use new/unstretched line. There's some people on here that seem to really know what they're doing (when splicing) and are also very helpful.

[lederhosen]

Nice guide, thanks for posting! Is it easier to pull the tail into the line in the end when its tapered?

[watercamper]

Nice guide, thanks for posting! Is it easier to pull the tail into the line in the end when its tapered?

I don't think it would be any easier but all the research I did showed that the tail should be tapered. The taper relieves any stress concentrations at one point that could potentially be a breaking point for the line.

[Herman]

I would expect what you are doing will work just fine. Personally my view is always try to use least disruption of fibres, therefore I would not use an awl to make a large hole, I just use the wire to pull a line through, (or a thread pulled through with the wire if it is a loop to be pulled through) when making a Brummell.

For flying line I generally use ~120mm bury and a little loose stitching rather than Brummell.

Tô pull the bury through a line or core I make an attachment tab with rigging tape, I use Marlow rigging tape, see photo. For flying line I use a ~30mm length of tape cut to ~6mm in width. I then do a taper once the bury has been pulled through and out. I make the taper in the last ~25mm by pulling out one of the 12 strands and trim it off, miss out two strands, pull out next strand trim off etc. The strands will stay together until you get near the end but once they separate just ~6 strands left, then chop a little to complete taper. Your taper looks rather long but it may be just the photo.

These are just differences for your consideration I am definitely not saying you are doing anything wrong.

PS to make the tab wind on 1.5 turns onto the line @ ~45° and then twist the rest of the tape into a string, bend the tape string in the middle.

[Herman]

Subtracting the line length for your Brummell and the line length for your taper what percentage of your bury is providing the full quota of friction for the splice?

[watercamper]

Subtracting the line length for your Brummell and the line length for your taper what percentage of your bury is providing the full quota of friction for the splice?

I think I understand your question. I remember investigating the length of the bury and coming up with a few values based on line diameter. I couldn't find my old notes but I seem to remember something like 60%. So, 66 mm for 1.1 mm line. I thought that was too small. I liked Andy's use of 100 mm. If you substract my taper from the 100 mm as the taper is not giving the full quota of friction, I have 70 to 75 mm of friction.

[Herman]

I did my research a good few years ago and have not felt the need to update. The general guide I keep in mind is 72xdiameter plus a taper for full strength and so you are in the ball park. Conditions such as wet, dry, soaked in oil obviously have an influence as well as the material of the line. I have also seen line hold with much less than a full bury particularly where full line strength is not required. I have also seen longer bury lengths specified for certain materials.

With flying line, which is often wet I am keen to achieve full strength and so go generous with the bury. Bear in mind that, arguably, the Brummell is not taking load, it is the only there as an insurance and to stop any low load slippage. Better done with a little stitching as far as max load is concerned imho but a Brummell is ok by me if you prefer.

[watercamper]

I did my research a good few years ago and have not felt the need to update. The general guide I keep in mind is 72xdiameter plus a taper for full strength and so you are in the ball park. Conditions such as wet, dry, soaked in oil obviously have an influence as well as the material of the line. I have also seen line hold with much less than a full bury particularly where full line strength is not required. I have also seen longer bury lengths specified for certain materials.

With flying line, which is often wet I am keen to achieve full strength and so go generous with the bury. Bear in mind that, arguably, the Brummell is not taking load, it is the only there as an insurance and to stop any low load slippage. Better done with a little stitching as far as max load is concerned imho but a Brummell is ok by me if you prefer.

Got it! I'm using these lines for foiling only. Still using my heavier setup in the surf. One day when I am not on the road, I want to do a Brummel with no bury, wet it down and do a pull test or multiple on and off pull tests just to see what happens.

[Herman]

Not tested Brummell with no bury on fly line but I have done it with 3mm D12 which I use for pigs. Took my weight without any significant flinching other than to make the tail stick out @ 90° to the line so that you could see it had been loaded. And so if a splice tail has slipped I think you would see a bump at the Brummell.

In all my years of splicing I have never had a failure nor seen a Brummell that I think has been loaded, hence my confidence to not use one for flying lines. As you gain experience and see what works from the main manufacturers your confidence will grow and you will probably start to think that your stuff is stronger than a lot of the shop stuff or maybe you have already reached that point.

PS have not seen much data on how much strength loss results from a Brummell, for my purposes I just allow 10% but that is real finger in the air guesswork.