Here you can exchange your experience and datas about your home build boards
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artificialname
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Postby artificialname » Wed Jul 07, 2021 3:15 am
Google brings up lots of guides to sleeving a kite line, but not how to sew/stitch the end once you're finished.
I presume that it is important to sew the sleeve without piercing the Dyneema? Any tricks on how to do that?
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windmaker
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Postby windmaker » Wed Jul 07, 2021 6:31 am
No, you do pierce the Dyneema and sleeving simultaneously.
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evan
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Postby evan » Wed Jul 07, 2021 7:03 am
Other than with splices, on sleeved line the strength comes from the stitches holding the lines together. So it is really important to pierce the line inside the sleeve and use enough stitches and strong thread.
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artificialname
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Postby artificialname » Wed Jul 07, 2021 1:35 pm
evan wrote: ↑Wed Jul 07, 2021 7:03 am
Other than with splices, on sleeved line the strength comes from the stitches holding the lines together. So it is really important to pierce the line inside the sleeve and use enough stitches and strong thread.
Thanks! What type of thread?
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OzBungy
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Postby OzBungy » Sat Jul 10, 2021 8:16 am
Why are you sleeving lines? There's very few places where you want sleeving. All I can think of is the loop terminating at a trim bracket. Everything else would end on a pig tail which is thick dyneema and doesn't need sleeving.
If you sleeve lines you need to sew the two sides together with a zigzag stitch. If you can do that you should have the skill to tell us what to be doing. You're far better off learning to splice. It's easier, neater and stronger.
You can stick a couple of pieces of cardboard to the plate of a sewing machine to hold the lines straight and together. Get a bit of practice then go for it. It works best if you sew smoothly with a bit of speed. If you sew too slow it will tangle and you'll have to unpick and start again.
Anyway, you sew everything in kiting with bonded polyester thread. It's also known as Dabond. Google it. It's very strong and has UV inhibitors. The V number indicates the thickness. I use V69 for most things. I used to use V32 because I got the end of a reel from a sail maker.
If you can't/won't get Dabond then polyester upholstery thread is strong and won't rot. It doesn't have UV stabilisers.
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nixmatters
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Postby nixmatters » Sat Jul 10, 2021 2:59 pm
OzBungy wrote: ↑Sat Jul 10, 2021 8:16 am
You can stick a couple of pieces of cardboard to the plate of a sewing machine to hold the lines straight and together. Get a bit of practice then go for it. It works best if you sew smoothly with a bit of speed. If you sew too slow it will tangle and you'll have to unpick and start again.
That's how I did it with a basic household sewing machine. With a sleeved line something a bit thicker than a credit card should do.
Bonded thread is needed for zigzag stich to prevent the thread plies opening and the hook catching only one or two plies when the thread untwists during sewing. The heavier the thread count, the more a bonded thread is needed, due to less twists per cm/inch.
V46 or even V30 will allow a finer needle and less damage to the line. That's Ticket size 60 to 80 if you are in Europe and the thread is a non-bonded multifilament polyester.
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Postby Matteo V » Sat Jul 10, 2021 4:19 pm
For sleeving Q-power line, I learned the hard way that it is essential to wet the line. This prevents the Dacron thread from friction heating and cutting the dyneema.
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Windigo1
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Postby Windigo1 » Sat Jul 10, 2021 9:00 pm
I have always done it manually and yes you want to go through the the line and the sleeve at the same time.
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OzBungy
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Postby OzBungy » Sun Jul 11, 2021 1:47 am
For sewing splices, simply put the line under the sewing foot and sew away. It's easy because it's only straight stitch. I like to lengthen the stitch to 5mm to reduce the natural bunching and oversewing that can occur.
It's important before sewing to pull the ends of the thread out about 20cm and lay them out the back to the right of the foot. That greatly reduces the "bird's nest" clumping under the work.
It's also important to use sharp needles. Blunt needles tear through the fabric. Sharp ones greatly reduce the risk of tearing.
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artificialname
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Postby artificialname » Sat Jul 17, 2021 3:18 pm
OzBungy wrote: ↑Sat Jul 10, 2021 8:16 am
Why are you sleeving lines? There's very few places where you want sleeving. All I can think of is the loop terminating at a trim bracket. Everything else would end on a pig tail which is thick dyneema and doesn't need sleeving..
Thanks everyone for the advice.
The end of a centre line that attaches to a pigtail - Is there any reason not to splice the loop that attaches to the pigtail? Does it have to be sleeved?
Why do manufacturers always sleeve this point if splices are stronger?
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