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downunder wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 16, 2021 3:07 am

floaties are just that. for floating the bar.

Lines can wrap way more with floaties if they are not designed right - like with some major products.

Free moving floaties can wrap the same like no floaties at all. I would like to know why we think oversized floaties do not wrap?

Could you elaborate on this logic? To me it makes sense that floaties help big time against wrapping around the bar.

^
I think you guys need to elaborate this first.

Some bars are better, some are not. But none are 100% safe for a line wrap.

The death loops were more common due to a long bridles btw. Since we passed that, they are not that common due to a line wrap anyway.

And more and more using a slider, even a hook is not that bad.

Hence, a bar can be a wooden stick. Would we use one? probably not. In reality, we can.

Floats definitely help for one particular type of death loop. Those long bridles were the worst. Death loops on a daily basis. Sliders are great if you don't unhook. Safer than the spreader hook and you always know the qr works and you get free practice activating the qr. I unhook so spreader hook for me.

I have not gotten around to doing anything to the bar build. I'm dealing with a finicky epoxy hotcoat that bonds badly to the dyneema layup (windsurf board).

I was thinking; what about a brake line? What's the opinion on those? They might mitigate line wraps?

I used to clip my 2 leaderlines together at the stopperballs (Flysurfer bar) and those to my chickenloop. That way the kite (FS Soul 10m) stays nicely backstalled on the ground while selflanding. I use a thether or the chickenloop over my HF stab a fixed point. Now the chickenloop is gone, a brakeline could be interesting.

Very interesting. Maybe? Try it let us know.

Found a few moments to fiddle with the rope based flagout. Started off with 2,5mm SK99 and made 3mm, 6mm and finally 8mm (this one is in the photos) lock spliced loops. By the looks of it now the 8mm interlocked loops is the correct size for the purpose.

I did two times a spliced larks (or whatever you call that) in order to just have 2 lines around the thimble instead of a regular larks which would end up with 4 lines looping the thimble making it too think to seat properly. I fixed/finished these with a whipping. The fixed power line is attached to the knot. This is all done without sewing machine, so brummel splices and I could not make the interlocking loops out of 1 piece like Evan did.

Still need to make the flagout line, leader lines and attach testing flying lines. I'm using old 5 bar short lines for now before I commit to making a new set.

Finished the leaderlines and attached the flying lines. The lines are above-the-V lines from old 5 line bars for now; 13m. Did a quick test on the beach releasing thw flag out a couple of times after building up some tension. For now seems to work quite good. The knot caught the small ring of the Infexion QR one time, but wasn't stuck or anything. I've yet to take it out on the water, ordered my first Peak4 4m so seems a logical candidate for this.

With foiling, as others also mention, i'm actually never use the trim. I'm pondering making the setup even cleaner by moving the cleat below the bar. This would eliminate the weight of that cleat in the lines, and suspend it at the spreaderbar where you don't notice it. Assuming you'd still be able to use it below the bar, it would be nice to have the option.

If you hardly ever use the cleat then I would recommend replacing the heavy cleat with a rope cleat:

Merl have you used this type of splice based trim system ? I attempted one but it felt difficult to adjust.
I remember a older post where someone tried adding a second mini rope to pull the splice and allow to let go off the trim.

Nelis that is a very neat looking bar hope the textile flagout proves reliable over time, may be worth checking it regularly ?
If I understand on the infexion QR the safety line "knot" only has to go through a ring when you release, not a 6mm hole through a long QR,
so you can make a thicker knot without the risk of having it slipping through the trimmer bracket ?