Here you can exchange your experience and datas about your home build boards
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merl
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Postby merl » Thu Dec 08, 2022 9:15 am
evan wrote: ↑Thu Dec 08, 2022 7:44 am
You also can go down to 1mm wall thickness if you drill the hole in the front or back (center line of the bending where there are no stresses) instead of the top/bottom.
This will give an extremely light bar with similar Stiffness to most commercial bars. 2mm wall thickness for maximum Stiffness
Very interesting comment Evan. 1mm (or even 1.5) wall thickness (e.g. described as 22x20 i.e. 22 outer diameter, 20 inner) is much easier to find than 2mm. I suppose the bar ends are no issue if you fill them with reinforced epoxy and then drill them.
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Gerwinnaar
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Postby Gerwinnaar » Thu Dec 08, 2022 11:11 am
Jamie-NYC wrote: ↑Thu Dec 08, 2022 12:44 am
I am working on a similar project using carbon bike handlebars (very inexpensive). What is your grip made from? I am unsure why you need the bolt to hold the dyneema - there is not much force on the center ring. Note, I simply used very thick zip-tie in place of your dyneema.
In case I will make a new bar I will try the zip-tie ring combo. I love the simplicity of this solution.
I already use zip-tie’s underneath old reused naish bar ends, so I don’t need holes in the tubes as well.
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faklord
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Postby faklord » Thu Dec 08, 2022 11:27 am
Jamie-NYC wrote: ↑Thu Dec 08, 2022 12:44 am
I am working on a similar project using carbon bike handlebars (very inexpensive). What is your grip made from? I am unsure why you need the bolt to hold the dyneema - there is not much force on the center ring. Note, I simply used very thick zip-tie in place of your dyneema.
Grip is sold as “Fishing Rod grip”. Can be found on eBay
Eg
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403703740408 ... media=COPY
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Gerwinnaar
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Postby Gerwinnaar » Fri Jan 13, 2023 7:48 pm
merl wrote: ↑Thu Dec 08, 2022 9:11 am
I don't agree completely - with that hole then you cannot sheet in and out so freely when the bar is angled. When you use a ring you get no resistance even when sheeting at high angles.
I now attached a 16mm hole to see how that works. It’s a combination of the Spinlock scepter and the Spinlock BE16/TF , with 25mm 5mm bolts it’s easy to assemble.
In the photo you see the “old part” next to the attached 16mm hole.
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JakeFarley
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Postby JakeFarley » Sat Jan 14, 2023 12:51 am
The ring needs to be securely fastened to the bar to stay centered on the bar. I don't know if I would trust zip ties. If the system you use to fasten the ring to the bar allows the ring to slide to one side of the bar, you could have a delicate situation steering the kite. If it breaks and the ring comes off the bar entirely, then what?
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Cdog
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Postby Cdog » Sun Jan 15, 2023 11:03 pm
I don’t know if this helps but my first couple of bars came with no center hole It was always outside. There’s a picture of a 2003 Cabrina bar.
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Trent hink
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Postby Trent hink » Sun Jan 15, 2023 11:58 pm
This is right up my alley, I'm currently looking for information on this sort of thing...
I remember at some point early on in this sport, there were people considering the concept of a "free bar," where the power lines were completely disconnected from the control bar.
... I can't say that the "free bar" concept seems like a great idea, but once on a long downwinder, I had the trim strap snap on my Flysurfer Warrior 2, right at the worst possible spot.
The spot was called, "Point of Rocks, and for good reason.
After a bit of frantic forking around, I relaunched and casually made it another mile or two down to the extraction location by hooking directly into what was left of the trim strap...
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peppedurso
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Postby peppedurso » Mon Jan 16, 2023 12:40 pm
Hi,
I had the idea of using a "bridge" like this in the picture, not sure about the english technical denomination.
Advantage is that a rectangular main line tube can be used, adding auto swivel mode to the bar.
Lack of time made me desist from the project.
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Jyoder
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Postby Jyoder » Mon Jan 16, 2023 2:40 pm
I still use my 2-3 yr old diy carbon bar with offset hole regularly for foiling. Super lightweight with no filler/reinforcement in the middle since tube is intact.
1. Low friction ring sanded flat on once side using belt sander and 60grit.
2. Epoxy and carbon fiber tow wrapped around to secure.
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sodamixer
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Postby sodamixer » Sun Jan 29, 2023 11:18 am
Trent hink wrote: ↑Sun Jan 15, 2023 11:58 pm
This is right up my alley, I'm currently looking for information on this sort of thing...
I remember at some point early on in this sport, there were people considering the concept of a "free bar," where the power lines were completely disconnected from the control bar.
... I can't say that the "free bar" concept seems like a great idea, but once on a long downwinder, I had the trim strap snap on my Flysurfer Warrior 2, right at the worst possible spot.
The spot was called, "Point of Rocks, and for good reason.
After a bit of frantic forking around, I relaunched and casually made it another mile or two down to the extraction location by hooking directly into what was left of the trim strap...
i had also the idea of making the bar with an option to disconnect from the depower lines. or maybe other options to have a more free steering feeling like i enjoyed it at the beginning of my kite experience with 2 line traction foil kites. one idea was similar to the o shit handles the slingshot bar had years ago.
i definetly see o lot of experimenting room in the function of the actual bar construction.
i also would like to have some kind of extended reach so another thing to grab and steer the kite that is more near to me so riding depowerd is more comfortable and maybe also more desinged for one hand steering. this part would not need a connection to the depower lines.
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