Why the Core bar? One of the very, very few designs with a non working safety (difference between front lines is not enough, even for Core Kites) and very expensive, there are so many better bars... Do you have it already?
Remove the rings from front line, cut the front lines, do spliced loops and add a new Splitter, so complete frontline is pulled in saftety. Maybe you will need to cut/splice the back lines too, to get a good trim of your bar. I don't know the QR well enough, is the hole big enough to pull through the saftey & center line? Else it won't work.
I would really not do it, better sell the bar and buy a better one.
I had the same dilemma. I was switching from Core to North, but I really wanted to keep the Core bar (Sensor 3 Pro) as it is by far the best bar I have ever had in my hands. Unfortunately you have to cut the lines to achieve that and that was too big of an interference for my comfort (hard to sell the bar later etc.).
I'm waiting for North to make the auto untwist one day...
Why the Core bar? One of the very, very few designs with a non working safety (difference between front lines is not enough, even for Core Kites) and very expensive, there are so many better bars... Do you have it already?
Remove the rings from front line, cut the front lines, do spliced loops and add a new Splitter, so complete frontline is pulled in saftety. Maybe you will need to cut/splice the back lines too, to get a good trim of your bar. I don't know the QR well enough, is the hole big enough to pull through the saftey & center line? Else it won't work.
I would really not do it, better sell the bar and buy a better one.
- Oliver
It's completely imposible. The core bar design has 2 depower lines and if you mount a low Y, there will be a problem for safety emergency.
If I install the same safety technique of almost all other bars, I will have the safety line and only 1 depower line that is not enough strong for its 2mm.
Shit!!
If I install the same safety technique of almost all other bars, I will have the safety line and only 1 depower line that is not enough strong for its 2mm.
Shit!!
This! On the core setup both lines through the bar are loaded instead of 1 loaded + flagout.
Besides a new front line setup you also need a new flagout+depower cord. Cost will be in the €150-200.- range when done right, and that is if a stronger depower cord and flagout line+stopper will fit through the chickenloop.
Core bar does fly ok on other kites, but the flagout won't work when you need it! Something to consider.....
Flagout system was a main reason when I moved from XR6 to EVOs I decided to get click bar instead of keeping my current sensor 3s bar, core bar is more ergonomic and feels better quality but riding in strong winds would worry me a bit if I had Sensor bar. Another downsize of Sensor bar it this power line that wears due to sliding rings.
It only proves that there isn’t ideal bar because combining best features from different bar wouldn’t work and each feature has some downside.
Very close to ideal bar is Reedin Dream X with low V, best bar I used and I see many people on North kite riding this bar on my local spot.
Click bar is great but sometime front lines twist and they don’t untwist for some reason and only way is to manually untwist them with lines disconnected at beach. I don’t understand it and it rarely happened to me with a sSensor 3
Flagout system was a main reason when I moved from XR6 to EVOs I decided to get click bar instead of keeping my current sensor 3s bar, core bar is more ergonomic and feels better quality but riding in strong winds would worry me a bit if I had Sensor bar. Another downsize of Sensor bar it this power line that wears due to sliding rings.
It only proves that there isn’t ideal bar because combining best features from different bar wouldn’t work and each feature has some downside.
Very close to ideal bar is Reedin Dream X with low V, best bar I used and I see many people on North kite riding this bar on my local spot.
Click bar is great but sometime front lines twist and they don’t untwist for some reason and only way is to manually untwist them with lines disconnected at beach. I don’t understand it and it rarely happened to me with a sSensor 3
new Cabrinha's bar is very promising
auto-untwist
segmented lines
click-and-go chicken loop
tooless chicken loop change
overdrive 42/50 or 47/55
clean visual and is usually not too expensive
It's a V bar that you could convert to Y easily without losing the flagout line