I've been teaching lots of people to gybe recently in private lessons and virtual coaching, so thought I'd chirp in with a couple of specific things that come up over and over again - like pretty much with every person I've ever taught to gybe (probably 50+ people by now). But also to say there are so many ways to do a gybe, as many others have said - wind strength, kite size, kite style, foil size, sea state all play a part and can change the way you have to gybe. So just be aware that even once you get it for your 9m moderately powered in flat water, you may still have some re-training to do the next time when you are on your 12m or there is some chop etc. Anyway here are three things I seem to have to cover everytime:
1. Entering the Gybe - Faster than you think & Bent legs.
Most people enter the gybe too slow, whether its off the foil or foiling. Your initial speed is gonna get you through the first half of the carve. Don't go in crazy fast just a good moderate speed riding across the wind.
And no one EVER screwed up a gybe for bending their legs too much, getting their weight too low or forward
Get low and you're more likely to save a screw up elsewhere, more easily.
2. The Most Common Mistake: Flying the kite too fast
This just happens time and time and time again. People say they are existing the gybe on their toeside with not enough power, the kite ending up too low - 95% of the time you're fly the kite up and over too fast. You start sending it up to 12 and then all your focus goes on the board as you stress about the upcoming the wobbly old toeside exit. So the kite just flies right across to the other side of the wind window before you've hardly carved and when you get round to your toeside the kite is bang up against the edge of the wind window, with no speed, so no hope of turning it back into the correct place.
Fly the kite REALLY slowly up to 12, way way way slower than you think
, this gives you time to follow it with the board and foil.
Your aim is for the kite to be at 12 as your board reaches pointing directly downwind.
THEN once its at 12 pull hard and drop it directly down into the powerzone - like when you are starting the waterstart, that kite movement - this will give you power on the exit. Why? The kite is down dropping and therefore will accelerate and because its moving it will still turn, so you can steer it back up. It actually doesn't need to drop it low, turn it back up early and now you can exit and have the kite nice and high. High is safe and stable.
This image sums it up:
3. EXIT/Toeside - Ride Broad, Kite High
So just to repeat what I finished the last tip with - complete the gybe's kite movement by getting it high as quick as possible. With foiling the kite is always easier to handle when is high and you are standing up over the board (rather than leaning back against the kite). As you first start riding on your toeside you'll be focusing again on just controlling the damn board/foil and the kite will keep dropping so just ensure you don't forgot and you directing it up. When I coaching people on the BBtalkin for this, I am constantly just saying, kites getting to low, direct it up, direct it up, DIRECT IT UP! Everytime. This one is something you have to recognise and fight to ensure you keep in check.
Yeah so that is my 3 cents
Hope it helps...
And I do have a full Carving Turn video on the Progression site
but this free YouTube video also has a couple of these points illustrated and may help: