I guess I'm on the opposite camp, I probably downloop more often than not, be it on TT, surfboard, buggy, and of course snowkiting. It seems more efficient in almost every possible way. At the end of the day, do what feels the more natural to you.
I guess I'm on the opposite camp, I probably downloop more often than not, be it on TT, surfboard, buggy, and of course snowkiting. It seems more efficient in almost every possible way. At the end of the day, do what feels the more natural to you.
That's interesting - surely it's much more common not to downloop gybe? I haven't used a TT in years, but on my SB I'm typically keeping the kite low as it turns & I carve hard through the power zone. I don't understand how you could do that downlooping? I guess you start higher & then low to the water as it downloops?
Maybe it's only more common among us free-ride foilers? If you're not relying on the lift of the kite to change feet, and just ride the board into the new tack and stay on your toes...Flyboy wrote: ↑Wed Aug 19, 2020 2:33 amThat's interesting - surely it's much more common not to downloop gybe? I haven't used a TT in years, but on my SB I'm typically keeping the kite low as it turns & I carve hard through the power zone. I don't understand how you could do that downlooping? I guess you start higher & then low to the water as it downloops?
Yeah sure. Fly the kite fast & maintain line tension. Perhaps you're not talking about really light winds. Going into a gybe I'm holding the bar at the extreme end & pulling as as hard as I can to get the kite turning as fast as possible. The kite goes from 11 to 12 to 1 o'clock, hesitates, then starts to tumble. Often I can save it by completing the carve, heading upwind a bit & yanking hard on the other side of the bar to re-establish line tension before it hits the water. Definitely harder with the 11m than underpowered with the 8m or smaller. Downlooping (I suppose) eliminates the part where the kite has to climb through zenith, which is the critical moment.alowishus wrote: ↑Mon Aug 24, 2020 5:32 amI almost always downloop going into a gybe, after switching feet, or not, even when quite powered up as I love the acceleration carving around. I generally try and ride on the underpowered side though.
In really light winds, as mentioned above by others, it's super important to keep the kite flying as fast as possible to maintain line tension, looping in whatever direction as required and as suits.
If not accustomed to downlooping when gybing, this is no problem, you just need to redirect to the other side hard, and if wind is really light, continue the redirection into a loop to generate power and keep tension in the other direction. Wider loops generate more power, which can be more effective with longer lines, and will want to avoid small loops.
Hey Flyboy,Flyboy wrote: ↑Mon Aug 24, 2020 6:19 amYeah sure. Fly the kite fast & maintain line tension. Perhaps you're not talking about really light winds. Going into a gybe I'm holding the bar at the extreme end & pulling as as hard as I can to get the kite turning as fast as possible. The kite goes from 11 to 12 to 1 o'clock, hesitates, then starts to tumble. Often I can save it by completing the carve, heading upwind a bit & yanking hard on the other side of the bar to re-establish line tension before it hits the water. Definitely harder with the 11m than underpowered with the 8m or smaller. Downlooping (I suppose) eliminates the part where the kite has to climb through zenith, which is the critical moment.alowishus wrote: ↑Mon Aug 24, 2020 5:32 amI almost always downloop going into a gybe, after switching feet, or not, even when quite powered up as I love the acceleration carving around. I generally try and ride on the underpowered side though.
In really light winds, as mentioned above by others, it's super important to keep the kite flying as fast as possible to maintain line tension, looping in whatever direction as required and as suits.
If not accustomed to downlooping when gybing, this is no problem, you just need to redirect to the other side hard, and if wind is really light, continue the redirection into a loop to generate power and keep tension in the other direction. Wider loops generate more power, which can be more effective with longer lines, and will want to avoid small loops.
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