Postby jumptheshark » Wed Feb 17, 2021 11:57 pm
The basic dynamic is the same as unhooked riding on other boards. Foil is just a lot more slippery (low drag) and you can't check speed with the board edge the same way, so its much easier to end up like this guy at the end of the video! I strongly advise learning the basics on another style of board. Long downwinders are the best way to start. I can't actually imagine what it would be like learning to unhook first on foil. Definitely not the easy way. Learning to ride really deep downwind, even hooked in can teach you a lot of the key concepts, so definitely do some of that on foil before unhooking.
Not all kites work well unhooked. C kites are great, C shaped kites like the RPM or the SST (above video) are pretty good. Lots of wave kites are pretty good, but flatter tube kites not so much. They drift poorly and either overpower you or you end up stalling em backward. Allrounders are a mixed bag. Some like the Pivot are ok, where the Rally is horrid. Lots of wind is also pretty helpful. With foil kites all I really know is that Peaks are amazing unhooked. I suspect any foil kite that drifts well would work i.e.. Firefly, concept wave etc. Not sure about other foil kites, but certainly nothing form the racy end of the spectrum. No matter the kite, as mentioned above, you will have to trim it in to avoid stall, and so you can edge out some power without getting overwhelmed.
As mentioned your going to head pretty deep off the wind. Totally forget about the concept of even holding your ground when learning to unhook. You have no depower at the bar so your going to play your edge against the kite to keep it in the right region of the window and maintain a manageable speed. Let the kite get too deep and its going to backstall (end of video), let it get too far forward and you lose power. Get going too fast and its hard to depower (death run speed like beginners), but your already committed to going downwind so you can dump power by heading deeper off the wind and more toward the kite, just make sure you don't kill all the kites speed by heading too much toward it especially while its low in the window.
In fact for the first few times, keep the kite relatively high. From there you learn how flying the kite high yields less power and you lower it to get more power (instead of sheeting). Once you can keep it all clean and simple by first learning to find that line deep off the wind where everything is relatively balanced and only gusts or lulls make you alter something, your ready to start messing around.
S turns on one tack are the next thing. Signing your line in sync with the kite sinusing in the sky. As you carve toward upwind, climb the kite to produce less power and allow your line. Carve toward downwind as the kite corners at the top so you are headed back downwind when the kite is in the dive phase. Carve back toward upwind as the kite bottom turns and begins to climb again as you once again are on your most upwind line of the S turn. I say upwind, but you are likely not really ever going to head further upwind than a reach. It's a rhythm thing much like chasing the kite through turns style of wave riding.
All the fun really starts when you get the basics and you can start throwing the kite across the window from one side to the other following it through the turn to end up back in balance (both power and speed) on the other tack. Stringing those unhooked jibes together, again, like follow the kite style wave riding. Where at first your just trying to find balance on a single line, once you learn to throw the kite around, it actually gets a bit easier, as throwing the kite through turns lends a certain predictability to pace and power that you can work your edge against.
In reality, most times my line unhooked looks like a few S turns off the wind (say heel side), kite sinusing along in time to my turns, send it across, follow it onto the other tack with a hard carve to begin S turning on the other tack (toe side), kite sinusing along in time. Transitioning back and forth to keep you S turning in the best swell. The amount you have to sign the kite is proportional to both how deep downwind your line and how much wind. The more cross wind your line and the more wind there is, the less you have to sign the kite. In enough wind, you can pretty much just park it high in the window only moving a bit when you change tacks.
Again, on foil its all the same just add the slippery dynamic of riding with super low friction on a rail without the ability to check speed with a sideways slide.
After you get all that, the goal is to sync both your turns and your kites turns to the swell. Easy peasy!