FLandOBX wrote: ↑Thu Jul 01, 2021 10:50 pmI'm also learning tacks and can usually get through them on my strong side, but not consistently without a touch-down. So others will be able to speak from more experience.
I use a loop for my tacks just like for a 360. So I pull the loop with my original back hand and just continue pulling the kite across to the new toeside direction. I find that the loop provides the power I need to complete the tack. I also find that, with the loop, I often end up with the board oriented a bit downwind (like a 270), which allows me time to adjust my balance to toeside and carve back up to the new direction. I assume that, as I get more efficient, I'll come out of the tack immediately beating close-hauled on toeside. Learning 360's with kite loops first seems to have helped me with learning tacks.
It's easier for me to tack without touch-downs using a foil kite (FS Soul) than a LEI, because the foil kite provides more lift as I pull in the bar through the maneuver and then loop it. If you're always on LEI's, it helps to be powered with a larger kite, as opposed to riding the smallest kite possible for the wind condition.
Have fun with it.
Jyoder wrote: ↑Fri Jul 02, 2021 1:34 amWhen I don’t kite in a while I start failing tacks and this is what helps me get back to 100%:
When normally powered, you need to turn the bar harder than you’re used to as kite is overhead so the kite dives back into the power zone. If you sheet in too much to get this turn authority, you slow the kite down and so it lags overhead and you come off foil as you try to ride out.
1. Turn the bar harder (kite may even need to do a kind of “S” shape flight path to get enough juice from power zone, kind of like when you crank it late in a gybe and have to send it back and around like an “S”.
2. Don’t sheet in too much. (This is counter intuitive as you want lift to help with foot switch and this muscle memory is hard to fight).
Also, if you don’t turn the board around far enough, or you turn it too tight, you will lose speed and energy to complete the tack. Find the happy medium. Helps to look under your armpit or over your shoulder to the direction you want to ride out.
3. Turn far enough to new direction, but not too tight a turn.
Herman wrote: ↑Fri Jul 02, 2021 10:21 pmI had exactly the same feel of no power to ride out on the new tack learning this move on wheels. I think it was because you sheet out to carve through the wind and to get the kite to fly quickly over the zenith; then as others have said the kite ends up at the edge of the window which is ok if you are going to loop the kite back into the window for a 360 but not if you are going to just dive the kite. The solution for me was to give the old back hand a good pull as soon as the kite crossed Z and I use this moment to twist the wrist and shoulders while transferring weight to the new rail. To find out how hard to pull, just keep increasing the pull until you get a whoooah moment when you find out there is real power available after all.
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