foilholio wrote: ↑
Thu Aug 04, 2016 5:34 pm
Stand on the front main or line and pull the B main till it is fully extended or fully depowered. When like this measure from the top of the A main to the top of the B main, 2 of the bits you line up in a mixer test. It should be 25cm because it is a 421 mixer, C SPL is 100cm and 1/4 of that is 25cm. You can make it slightly longer if you want to compensate for upper bridle shrink . If you want to adjust B shorter in the profile say to make it more stable but maintain full depower, just add that to you calculation. Any shorter than 25cm or even at 25cm considering the upper bridle shrink, will be more stable depowered than standard. Generally though you can always pull on a bit of bar if you need more stability, that is though as long as the profile is set right or that way.
Oh aswell, if you can observe your bridles and Z is always slack even with the bar in, which seems common for flysurfers, try loosening C while keeping B level in the mixer test. This will allow the kite to possibly be more stable while also allowing Z to tension and camber more giving it more lift. Maybe not the best upwind but it is more how they are when original. Understanding B and C better has been quite enlightening. Merely looking at the mixer producing AoA or a complete profile with ABCZ is wrong I think. A majority of change is merely A and B. If C or Z come in too early you get stability problems. If B or C come in too early or Z too late you lack lift. The setting for best L/D is not the best for lift or stability but it is more stable.
Lord help me, here I go again...
Between this thread and the "Ozone Speed System" thread or whatever it's called and FS Soul thread and manual, I think there are two maybe three versions of the Long Mixer Test aka "overall grand solution to perfectly zero-tuning a foil kite because the wind is crap and I haven't got a foil board":
1. Gunnar (appears to) ignore the mixer SORRY speed system, stake the bottom of the mixer and measure the difference between A-B, A-C and A-Z. THEN add pigtails to the pulley lines and Z-main to restore the relative distances according to the line plan. Z = C in this case.
2. In the Soul thread (and manual), it seems that you zero the mixer then check the collective A1, B1, C1 and Z lengths. Then adjust C at the mixer, although it looks different to the previous versions.
3. And foilholio, you seem to be saying zero the mixer, stand on the front main and make sure A and B are 25cm different, disregarding the line plan differences.
I was also looking for the Z-mod, but couldn't find a clear explanation on how to do it or how much to do it. Search here doesn't work very well for "Z mod"
Sounds like just an extension for the Z-main above the pigtail which I get, but then I don't understand how you can just tie a knot in the Z-main and move C SPL down without messing things up, as on page 1 of this thread...
Gunnar's method and video makes the Long Mixer Test clear up to the point of setting Z the same as C -- why? Why even 2x C? Why wouldn't you set Z to the difference it should have been in the line plan?
For example, for the Speed3 15: A-B 8.9cm, A-C 25cm, A-Z 36.5cm... that is A1+A-main, B1+b1+B-main etc.
Zero the mixer. Add pigtails to return the differences to those above; surely that's a perfectly zeroed (blue printed? line planned?) kite?