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DIY Foil Kites

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Re: DIY Foil Kites

Postby kitexpert » Thu Dec 20, 2018 8:45 pm

klimm wrote:
Wed Dec 19, 2018 3:51 pm
Laid flat, the LE is very curved at the ends. The TE is much flatter.
Ok, just try to get your model in SP as close as possible to same as your kite is. Then you will have as precise bridle as possible.
klimm wrote:
Wed Dec 19, 2018 3:51 pm
The picture in the lines plan, that you also have is not accurate and is laid flat anyway.
It is ok to be flat, it should be flat. I wouldn't doubt accuracy that much, it may be the best information of kite shape you will have.
klimm wrote:
Wed Dec 19, 2018 3:51 pm
I compared my design with the real thing laid on the floor. In the design, I tried with some approximation to get as close as possible to the projected shape.
Comparing is ok. You decide by yourself how projected shape will be, within those limits PG parts allow. Just try to make it look good, wing will take that shape without much problems (as far as you are not doing anything too extreme).
klimm wrote:
Wed Dec 19, 2018 3:51 pm
Concerning the lines, I think that only the first level could be used (about 50-60 cm) at all levels. A,B,C even some of those on the commands(brakes)

Of course you use original lines, but they are only raw material to new lines. Don't try to match your design to original lines, it makes no sense because your new wing is different and it is almost impossible task. You must make every line new line, your SP model is done exactly for that purpose, to give new bridle line lengths.
klimm wrote:
Wed Dec 19, 2018 3:51 pm
Of course I will try to use old lines where it will be appropriate, with a larks head at an end for adjustments.
By accident it is possible that some of your old lines will match new lines, but most of them (90-95% (?)) you must cut and make a loop in them according to your plan. Recycling old lines is easier than to use bulk line because ends have loops already, only one end have to be made. Simplest way to make new loops is by knots.
klimm wrote:
Wed Dec 19, 2018 3:51 pm
I still have some doubts with too short 2nd and 3rd level lines not to distort too much the canopy
In your design first and second level are much too long, third level is too short. Length from the canopy to the end of the bridle is not long at all, more like short. Towpoint separation is ok.

Your canopy curve is too much in the center, adjust it towards the tips (like 50% or more). Amount of curve is ok.

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Re: DIY Foil Kites

Postby revhed » Sat Jan 12, 2019 5:41 pm

Do you BRAVE D I Y Ram air kite builders :thumb: include L E form supports like FS soul and most Ozones?
I see that almost all paragliders employ these but makes sense as is open cell and you are flying! :o
I ask only because my ultra cheap but ok flying Aurora has none and is easy to see the L E being pushed into itself.
I have checked and seems not so time consuming to add a rounded L E stiffener in between cells at sewn seam.
Wondering what material to use if so and is it worth it?
Any and all info much appreciated! :D
Must say my DIY thin lite cut off from SUP paddle handle BAR is very light and stiff, works well!

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Re: DIY Foil Kites

Postby Regis-de-giens » Sun Jan 13, 2019 11:07 am

You can use nylon strings from grass cutter rotating machines.
On my custom singleskin i used tennis raquet strings which is even lighter. That seems a bit weak at first sight but since the string will be locked along the intercell cloth (i.e. deformation is in one plane only), it is stiff enough (and un-breakable).

I sewed nothing and just inserted the string in the existing intercell sew.

But IMO Aurora does not need this and you may induce premature wear.

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