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gl
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Postby gl » Thu Dec 31, 2020 9:49 pm
I finally got to use my 11 metre Peak 4 on hard packed snow. I did not take a wind reading so all I can say is that I could barely feel the wind on my face at ground level. In wind that light I always had trouble getting my kites to fly. Once going they are fine. The 11 metre went up easily and got me moving slowly on the first dive. I was in a small bay so the wind was inconsistent but it was no problem keeping the kite in the air until I got out farther onto the ice and cleaner wind. That was exactly what I wanted the kite for, to fly and get me moving easily where other heavier kites did not want to fly and stay in the air. Later as the wind picked up the kite pulled very hard if it was low in the window. Once I raised it up to around 11:00 then the depower worked much better and I could stay in control whereas lower it was pulling really hard even depowered. Overall I was very pleased with how it performed.
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Orca-N
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Postby Orca-N » Fri Jan 01, 2021 2:41 pm
Thank you all for the profound feedback.
I will go for 6m (+11/13 will see).
I will also post how it turned out for me after some testing in a few months I guess.
(For giving up the TT over 20knots I suppose it will take some years for me.
)
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Flyboy
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Postby Flyboy » Fri Jan 01, 2021 7:13 pm
I know this has been discussed before, but the conclusions seem to have been ... inconclusive. What is the front/back line balance with the Peaks? Should I expect to shorten the back flying lines, lengthen them, or leave them as is? This is always a tricky thing when flying a new kite, but I expect it to be harder to pin down due to the feeling of the Peaks being significantly different from anything I've flown before.
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jatem
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Axis ART 999 foil with ultrashort fuse and HA 400 tail
Flysurfer Peak4 in 3m, 4m, 5m
Tow boogie
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Postby jatem » Fri Jan 01, 2021 8:45 pm
I tune the lines to be equal length.
I would suggest not having any back stall available on the bar for a new peak flyer, as that will be what causes you to steer it into the water - oversheeting and pivot turning, which will turn way quicker than you expect.
The peaks will back stall earlier when they are flying in their lower wind range. If you're in the middle power range for the peak, and you fully sheet in the bar, it shouldn't start flying backwards rapidly.
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jumptheshark
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Postby jumptheshark » Fri Jan 01, 2021 9:02 pm
you'll figure out trim pretty quick. These kites are so easy to fly by feel. They have dream level response depowered.
Starting with all lines even is good advice. They come well trimmed.
Once you figure out what it takes to back stall each size you can trim your bar to suit.
I think most of us like a bit of backstall accessible.
It's nice to leave a bar attached to these kites to max ease of use. Generally set and forget.
You don't need a trim strap on the smaller ones unless you want to unhook.
Small kites are fast with a short sheeting range so generally easy to stall. These are no exception. The 3 especially is not suited to ham fisted input.
These kites are kite fliers kites. They have amazing dexterity. They suit riders who can fly them hard without muscling it.
Part of what makes them so great off the wind is the dexterity and control depowered. Steering by feel with no harness pull is the holy grail for wave kites and Peaks are on another level.
Bar pressure in their sweet spot is ideal.
Super tactile, but light enough to do one handed all day.
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Breze
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Postby Breze » Fri Jan 01, 2021 9:41 pm
jatem wrote: ↑Fri Jan 01, 2021 8:45 pm
I tune the lines to be equal length.
I would suggest not having any back stall available on the bar for a new peak flyer, as that will be what causes you to steer it into the water - oversheeting and pivot turning, which will turn way quicker than you expect.
The peaks will back stall earlier when they are flying in their lower wind range. If you're in the middle power range for the peak, and you fully sheet in the bar, it shouldn't start flying backwards rapidly.
Totally agree.I normaly fly 5cm shorter steeringlines, but thats not what the P4 likes. I built two bars with long 55-60 cm depower throw ( the 60cm is not needed on the 5 m) 21m and 14m simple Kiss bars without trimm system
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Flyboy
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Postby Flyboy » Fri Jan 01, 2021 10:30 pm
My bars are currently set up for my wave kites. They have extra pigtails on the back lines. Will probably have to change this, which will mean taking them off the flying lines & putting them on the kites instead.
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jumptheshark
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Postby jumptheshark » Fri Jan 01, 2021 11:25 pm
Ah I remember that stage..... I had bars for all kinda kites. Bars for C kites, bars for wave kites. Even a spare like new generic bar for emergencies... just in case. Well, they all live on Peaks now. Well, all but that one for emergencies. Still have that, but All my Peaks just co opted bars and well, its just better that way.
I really hope you get some time on snow with your new toys, otherwise its gonna feel like a real long winter!
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papasmerf
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Postby papasmerf » Fri Jan 01, 2021 11:38 pm
this is some thread,,, wow. i was wondering if anyone had ever flown the 13m chrono v3 UL (or new v4) back to back with the peak 4 13m. very different kites i know, but just as far as lawn mowing with foil in the lightest of wind capabilities. and drift would be nice.
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jakemoore
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Postby jakemoore » Sat Jan 02, 2021 1:37 am
Flyboy wrote: ↑Fri Jan 01, 2021 7:13 pm
I front/back line balance with the Peaks?
I’m in the back lines a little shorter camp and is probably because I want the kite sitting deep pinwheeling quad rev style riding when riding downwind. Now just flying a 3. Also preferred some basketball on the 11 as I felt bring the kite back and deep in the window helped me make some downwind turns on marginal situations. I think the downside of backstall is it’s hard to feel on the peak and therefore hard to find the sweet spot bar position for the lightest wind water starts.
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