Tried Hotst’s bar set up (pictured) briefly and didn’t stick with it. Have read throughout this thread of those running Peaks without a leash/safety at all and not sure that’s great advice for traction kites no mater their size. The BRM leashless double release front line safety set up is perfectly unobtrusive and a great set up for Peaks. For those wishing to unhook, (what Horst had in mind) a standard chicken loop bar with a standard (short) depower throw rigged suicide works well, and in the event you let go, gives the rider ample time to recover the bar before the kite hits the water.
I’ve learned to actually appreciate the leash as unhooked Peak riding is almost all done one handed. It’s pretty easy to grab the leash with your free hand to pull a bit of depower whenever needed. I launch and land even small peaks with the leash clipped to a single front line and switch to suicide once out riding. Safety systems are for unpredictable/unforeseen scenarios. Just my opinion but I don’t recommend ever hooking up to a kite without the ability to eject.
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So the Peak 5 has some new features, one of the most interesting is the cutouts in the white flaps that the bridles attach to. Did anybody consider cutting these in DIY on a Peak4? It should be fairly easy to do and might safe some weight and allow the kite to dry faster .
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So the Peak 5 has some new features, one of the most interesting is the cutouts in the white flaps that the bridles attach to. Did anybody consider cutting these in DIY on a Peak4? It should be fairly easy to do and might safe some weight and allow the kite to dry faster .
You would compromise the textile and render the kite unsaleable while gaining close to nothing. This is a very bad idea, maybe sell your Peak4 and buy the newer one instead?
Also you'd have to do this 100 times without making a mistake and for it to be an exact match every single time otherwise the kit would be unbalanced. Between the man hours and skills required... I mean someone working with the textile used in the industry would tell you that am pretty sure.
Well, my kites are well used and Im not planning on selling them anyways. I disagree that it would be a bad idea or difficult. Depends on your skill level I guess.
The question is would you gain anything? Just the fact that the white parts stick to the upper and dry slow would be enough reason for me . Do you own a larger size peak⁴ ? I think the weight saving would be significant on the 11m , and I don't mind a few hours of cutting.
Well, my kites are well used and Im not planning on selling them anyways. I disagree that it would be a bad idea or difficult. Depends on your skill level I guess.
The question is would you gain anything? Just the fact that the white parts stick to the upper and dry slow would be enough reason for me . Do you own a larger size peak⁴ ? I think the weight saving would be significant on the 11m , and I don't mind a few hours of cutting.
I don't think it's a matter of whipping out the scissors and cutting holes. The Peak5 cutouts are probably laser cut for accuracy and to avoid fraying. You wouldn't be able to achieve a similar result with a cutting tool without ending up with a frayed mess, lower performance and lower value.
I doubt when you weighed the cutouts it would be sufficient to make a significant difference in weight and the whole process may distort the canopy.
Just get a Peak5, they're not expensive and they do have other performance advantages which are not related to the cutouts.