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https://www.homedepot.com/p/OOK-18-Gaug ... /100125749
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-19-Gau ... re/3109493
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-24-Ga ... re/3109325

Picture hanging wire. There are many different gauges, lower number is thicker. Thinner ones can be better for some thin bridles and thicker ones for ropes.

Maximum AC

Just received line in photo from eBay. Looks like a reasonable starting point, would not go thinner. Took just a couple of minutes to do the trial splice without taper. Wire shown is the outer winding of a low E guitar string pulled straight.

Regards Herman

Herman wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 27, 2020 5:44 pm

Took just a couple of minutes to do the trial splice without taper. Wire shown is the outer winding of a low E guitar string pulled straight.

Nicely done. Many years ago Flysurfer had a .pdf of splicing instructions. They suggested using an X-Acto knife to cut the line at an acute angle creating the taper as it is impractical to separate the strands of such a small line.

^ Sounds like good advice from Jakemoore, particularly as it's 16 strand. I will be just cutting my tapers as well with this fine stuff.

I just use scissors to cut tappers. The tapper to get the line to stick in the wire loop vs for the splice can be a bit different though sometimes. It's important the splices are at least 80-100x diameter or more in length for full strength. And if you stitch them only stitch the more loop end of the splice not the taper/line end. Stitching damages the line. If you stitched the bare line or near it it will lose strength.

Thanks for the info all. I ended up buying 0.8mm hollow core spectra (the cheap stuff) off of amazon and making a splicing tool with the high E of a guitar string I just replaced. The 0.8mm is a little thick for the bridle I replaced but I doubt it will make any difference. Between this and splicing Amsteel and double braid for a FS bar rebuild, it was quite the weekend.