To add more info as I find it, interestingly Ozone have created a page all about tuning the R1 race kite. I have also heard through other racers that Flysurfer are also doing lots of work on tuning but not publishing anything. Ozone's info is here
https://ozonekites.com/sports/racing/r1-pit-stop/
Not much news in the post from ozone apart from one gem about how to shorten A Main 1 lines (AR1 on an ozone), this confirms for me that the R1 is primarily suffering from a similar issue which is that they slow down over time and mostly due to A Main 1/AR1 getting longer relative to the rest of the bridle which is shrinking. The gem of info is that rather than splicing a new line they recommend shortening AR1 by taking the mixer off and doing a double loop of AR1 around the top mixer line that connects A level effectively shortening A bridle and every point attached through it A1-A8. They also recommend short mixer test and zero the mixer. So what they are saying is zero the bridle and zero the mixer which probabl needs B/C/K longer and/or A shorter.
Reassuringly this is pretty much exactly what we have found with the Booms and have adjusted. The two key changes I have been making/recommending on most Booms as they get older are shorten A Main 1 relative to A Main 2 or lengthen A Main 2 for the same effect. And also zero your mixer by shortening A or lengthening B/C.
And with the laser measuring rig I can now check all of these changes before and after and map the shape of the full bridle/kite to ensure they make the right shape and that its back close to factory settings. RE the laser rig, one of the guys from our club made up a sliding frame for the laser and 3d printed a mount for the weight at the mixer end with a laser reflector plate at the mixer connection point and also a laser holder with kite line knot holder at the canopy end on a slider. Here are some pics that should make more sense than the words, there are also youtube vids copied above in this link to show a similar rig.