I might do this to start experimenting with molds. Can't figure out how a mold process will not result in either heavy (solid core) and/or the same flush-out issue. Still trying to visualize the "easter egg" process discussed in another thread as that sounds like it would solve the LE join issue. Also, to get a light wing out of a mold, I'd still need to shape a foam core as well - a less accurate one, but using more resin/fillers. Weight is probably not an issue on smaller wings, but I'm still experimenting and making big beginner/surf wings so weight and wastage is a concern for me.
I did! Took out the new 1400 wing for a spin over the weekend. Strapless on a surfboard with 12m kite in 6-10 knots. I'm still learning but managed long runs up on the foil. And the wing seems to handle more speed than I feel comfortable with at the moment. And the upwind angle is ridiculous! It did take me about 2 years of building and crashing to get here, so it's incredibly satisfying to finally fly over water...
Thanks for the suggestions Kosta. The hose I use is very thick and stiff - not the normal garden hose. It handles the 25-30 inHg just fine. I also use an old fridge compressor hooked up to a gas cylinder that is supposed to be the resin trap. But I'm not doing infusion so never get resin near the hose - could just hook up the hose straight to the pump and save some work bench area.
I've used the bread-type foil with large holes many years ago when still building twintips. That caused very dry laminates. But the film I use now has very small pinholes and is made for wet layups (medium bleed A2200 release film P3). Cheap too. Only the excess resin gets sucked out and I get between 50:50 and 40:60 resin:fibre ratio by weight - thinks that's fine right? There's always some pinholes in the laminate, but that gets filled up when I do the filler- or gloss coat.kostantin wrote: ↑Mon Mar 12, 2018 7:58 amYou have way to much holes in your "hole foil" This is the reason your wing looks sort of dry. 3 to 4 holes on each side made with a needle is more then enough. The holes are made to get a vakuum, but not to suck the resin out. I do not recomend to buy industial made hole foil. This is made for mold injection ( tons of holes ) but not for bag vakuum.
Any foil should work and you can use any paper made needle. Don't make the holes on wood, use foam underneath.
Thanks Kosta, I can see you guys are pros and probably getting perfect ratios at the layup stage already. I have considered using less/smaller holes before, but was worried about trapping air pockets between layup and film. Do you roll these out before vacuum or does the vacuum take care of trapped air under the film?kostantin wrote: ↑Mon Mar 12, 2018 9:00 amGreetings,
I have been working for Schempp Hirth beginning of the 80's.and most of my life I have never made anything else, then carbon and glass. Never a hole foil with holes had been used. Have a look on the video ~ 2.17min. You see very few holes on a very large surface. All are hand made after the layup.
On the the tube squeeze problem. It will happen to you sooner or later. Murphies law.
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