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Learning to foil in swell and failing

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bkkite
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Learning to foil in swell and failing

Postby bkkite » Sat Sep 11, 2021 1:41 am

I guess part of the appeal is that its really hard, but this was one of those sessions that kicked my ass, and made me feel like I was getting worse :)


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Kamikuza
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Re: Learning to foil in swell and failing

Postby Kamikuza » Sat Sep 11, 2021 3:50 am

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Conversely, if it ain't working, try something different.

Ride across the swell, like you're a surfer in a barrel.
With foiling, the "barrel" is now under the surface, so you're foiling out the front of the wave because as you ride down that barrel and gain speed, you're get pushed ahead of the wave. If you get the foil too deep, it can actually push you right down and suck your board into the water. If you ride across it, you can sit on it ... forever. Or cut back and forth like a surfer, making erm top and bottom turns. I don't know the lingo.

So you'll have to be dynamic with your balance, as the pull from kite comes and goes, and the trim of the board changes constantly as you ride through the submarine barrels.

I'm also going to say I think your feet are too narrow, and if you have to ride so far forward, maybe the wing is too big for you. It's my feeling that having a wider base and being able to use your knees like shock absorbers, to let the board move under you and trim the pitch without loading it up till you want it, is a good way to get to grips with enjoying swell and speed with which you need to trim the board...

But yeah, it's a spanking. You'll love the days when you think you got it dialed then ride right out the front of a decent swell with the mast going fully out of the water and then getting slammed :lol:

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Flyboy
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Re: Learning to foil in swell and failing

Postby Flyboy » Sat Sep 11, 2021 4:43 am

bkkite wrote:
Sat Sep 11, 2021 1:41 am
I guess part of the appeal is that its really hard, but this was one of those sessions that kicked my ass, and made me feel like I was getting worse :)
You've got to train your body to react instinctively to little changes in the water pressure around the foil. Micro-adjustments. Practice. It's just time on the water. Try to be very flexible with your knees to absorb little bumps & water turbulence. And ... of course, keep your weight forward as you start to accelerate on swell.

bkkite
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Re: Learning to foil in swell and failing

Postby bkkite » Sat Sep 11, 2021 9:31 pm

Flyboy wrote:
Sat Sep 11, 2021 4:43 am
bkkite wrote:
Sat Sep 11, 2021 1:41 am
I guess part of the appeal is that its really hard, but this was one of those sessions that kicked my ass, and made me feel like I was getting worse :)
You've got to train your body to react instinctively to little changes in the water pressure around the foil. Micro-adjustments. Practice. It's just time on the water. Try to be very flexible with your knees to absorb little bumps & water turbulence. And ... of course, keep your weight forward as you start to accelerate on swell.
Yeah, it’s like skiing, get that weight out over the front as you come down the other side. Nerve wracking at first, but helps keep the foil in the water. The hardest lessons are the ones that sink in the most :)

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Flyboy
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Re: Learning to foil in swell and failing

Postby Flyboy » Sun Sep 12, 2021 12:06 am

bkkite wrote:
Sat Sep 11, 2021 9:31 pm
Flyboy wrote:
Sat Sep 11, 2021 4:43 am
bkkite wrote:
Sat Sep 11, 2021 1:41 am
I guess part of the appeal is that its really hard, but this was one of those sessions that kicked my ass, and made me feel like I was getting worse :)
You've got to train your body to react instinctively to little changes in the water pressure around the foil. Micro-adjustments. Practice. It's just time on the water. Try to be very flexible with your knees to absorb little bumps & water turbulence. And ... of course, keep your weight forward as you start to accelerate on swell.
Yeah, it’s like skiing, get that weight out over the front as you come down the other side. Nerve wracking at first, but helps keep the foil in the water. The hardest lessons are the ones that sink in the most :)
Yes - I've often thought it's like skiing: the natural instinct in skiing is to lean away from a steep slope rather than lean into the slope. Part of the problem with foiling is it goes against what you've learned on a TT & SB where you carve using the rear part of the rail more. When you're foiling you've got to carve by keeping your weight over the front wing. When the foil pops out of the water like it does at a couple of points in your video, it's because you've allowed your weight to get too far back. Keep your weight forward & bend your knees to absorb any bumps/turbulence. It will come with time on the water ...

bkkite
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Re: Learning to foil in swell and failing

Postby bkkite » Mon Sep 13, 2021 12:05 am

Kamikuza wrote:
Sat Sep 11, 2021 3:50 am
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Conversely, if it ain't working, try something different.

Ride across the swell, like you're a surfer in a barrel.
With foiling, the "barrel" is now under the surface, so you're foiling out the front of the wave because as you ride down that barrel and gain speed, you're get pushed ahead of the wave. If you get the foil too deep, it can actually push you right down and suck your board into the water. If you ride across it, you can sit on it ... forever. Or cut back and forth like a surfer, making erm top and bottom turns. I don't know the lingo.

So you'll have to be dynamic with your balance, as the pull from kite comes and goes, and the trim of the board changes constantly as you ride through the submarine barrels.

I'm also going to say I think your feet are too narrow, and if you have to ride so far forward, maybe the wing is too big for you. It's my feeling that having a wider base and being able to use your knees like shock absorbers, to let the board move under you and trim the pitch without loading it up till you want it, is a good way to get to grips with enjoying swell and speed with which you need to trim the board...

But yeah, it's a spanking. You'll love the days when you think you got it dialed then ride right out the front of a decent swell with the mast going fully out of the water and then getting slammed :lol:
Yeah, I definitely didn't get the "ride across it for ever" thing :). How do you find the right angle to catch it and ride with it? I guess some of the time, I have to slow down and depower the kite too, to let the wave carry me a bit?

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Kamikuza
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Re: Learning to foil in swell and failing

Postby Kamikuza » Mon Sep 13, 2021 7:29 am

bkkite wrote:
Mon Sep 13, 2021 12:05 am
Kamikuza wrote:
Sat Sep 11, 2021 3:50 am
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Conversely, if it ain't working, try something different.

Ride across the swell, like you're a surfer in a barrel.
With foiling, the "barrel" is now under the surface, so you're foiling out the front of the wave because as you ride down that barrel and gain speed, you're get pushed ahead of the wave. If you get the foil too deep, it can actually push you right down and suck your board into the water. If you ride across it, you can sit on it ... forever. Or cut back and forth like a surfer, making erm top and bottom turns. I don't know the lingo.

So you'll have to be dynamic with your balance, as the pull from kite comes and goes, and the trim of the board changes constantly as you ride through the submarine barrels.

I'm also going to say I think your feet are too narrow, and if you have to ride so far forward, maybe the wing is too big for you. It's my feeling that having a wider base and being able to use your knees like shock absorbers, to let the board move under you and trim the pitch without loading it up till you want it, is a good way to get to grips with enjoying swell and speed with which you need to trim the board...

But yeah, it's a spanking. You'll love the days when you think you got it dialed then ride right out the front of a decent swell with the mast going fully out of the water and then getting slammed :lol:
Yeah, I definitely didn't get the "ride across it for ever" thing :). How do you find the right angle to catch it and ride with it? I guess some of the time, I have to slow down and depower the kite too, to let the wave carry me a bit?
Depends on the swell conditions... On the lake, ours tend to peter out quickly, or are narrow, so there can't be ridden for ages.

And straight lines are boring, so I'm forever trying to cut top n bottom, or if the swell is narrowing then even back n forth. I like the wave kites for this, for drift and slack line response.

Whatever speed works ... works 😁 you don't want to go in too fast if you're worried you'll pick up speed and warp right off into the distance :lol:

bkkite
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Posts: 268
Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2016 6:45 pm
Local Beach: South Oyster Bay (Long Island)
Favorite Beaches: Kalpitiya, Sri Lanka
Style: Freeride
Gear: Core XR4 7/9/12/15. Nobile NHP and Nobile split surf / foil board. Slingshot hover glide foil
Brand Affiliation: None
Has thanked: 16 times
Been thanked: 41 times

Re: Learning to foil in swell and failing

Postby bkkite » Mon Sep 13, 2021 8:28 pm

Kamikuza wrote:
Mon Sep 13, 2021 7:29 am
bkkite wrote:
Mon Sep 13, 2021 12:05 am
Kamikuza wrote:
Sat Sep 11, 2021 3:50 am
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Conversely, if it ain't working, try something different.

Ride across the swell, like you're a surfer in a barrel.
With foiling, the "barrel" is now under the surface, so you're foiling out the front of the wave because as you ride down that barrel and gain speed, you're get pushed ahead of the wave. If you get the foil too deep, it can actually push you right down and suck your board into the water. If you ride across it, you can sit on it ... forever. Or cut back and forth like a surfer, making erm top and bottom turns. I don't know the lingo.

So you'll have to be dynamic with your balance, as the pull from kite comes and goes, and the trim of the board changes constantly as you ride through the submarine barrels.

I'm also going to say I think your feet are too narrow, and if you have to ride so far forward, maybe the wing is too big for you. It's my feeling that having a wider base and being able to use your knees like shock absorbers, to let the board move under you and trim the pitch without loading it up till you want it, is a good way to get to grips with enjoying swell and speed with which you need to trim the board...

But yeah, it's a spanking. You'll love the days when you think you got it dialed then ride right out the front of a decent swell with the mast going fully out of the water and then getting slammed :lol:
Yeah, I definitely didn't get the "ride across it for ever" thing :). How do you find the right angle to catch it and ride with it? I guess some of the time, I have to slow down and depower the kite too, to let the wave carry me a bit?
Depends on the swell conditions... On the lake, ours tend to peter out quickly, or are narrow, so there can't be ridden for ages.

And straight lines are boring, so I'm forever trying to cut top n bottom, or if the swell is narrowing then even back n forth. I like the wave kites for this, for drift and slack line response.

Whatever speed works ... works 😁 you don't want to go in too fast if you're worried you'll pick up speed and warp right off into the distance :lol:
I've got a single strut kite that drifts well, so I'll have to work on that more. I did a few top and bottom turns following the swell down the line, I just have to get better and turning more sharply

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Kamikuza
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Re: Learning to foil in swell and failing

Postby Kamikuza » Tue Sep 14, 2021 7:41 am

bkkite wrote:
Mon Sep 13, 2021 8:28 pm
I've got a single strut kite that drifts well, so I'll have to work on that more. I did a few top and bottom turns following the swell down the line, I just have to get better and turning more sharply
That's where the size of the kite comes into play, or rather how much power you have. It can pull you off your line or you waste energy fighting against it.

Also where you need to be really good with riding the board with both feet, and have it stable and solid under you. Expect more beatings :lol:


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