I wish all the fancy vids we see on youtube showed how they get out through waves,or how they recover from falling in the impact zone.
I know, they probably make it look super easy,but anyway
Show me anything decent for getting out through crappy large shore break, or dealing with a wipeout in the impact zone,.....and then I’ll take notice!
You won't see it because it does not exist. Just good timing (sometimes little luck) and choosing the right launch spot. On big wave days you need to launch from a harbor, protected bay, boat, pier anything which makes it possible. Wipeouts often mean a swim and walk to the original launch spot.
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I wish all the fancy vids we see on youtube showed how they get out through waves,or how they recover from falling in the impact zone.
I know, they probably make it look super easy,but anyway
Show me anything decent for getting out through crappy large shore break, or dealing with a wipeout in the impact zone,.....and then I’ll take notice!
You won't see it because it does not exist. Just good timing (sometimes little luck) and choosing the right launch spot. On big wave days you need to launch from a harbor, protected bay, boat, pier anything which makes it possible. Wipeouts often mean a swim and walk to the original launch spot.
Dunno, i can't imagine Kai Lenny launching shyly from a harbour, much less walking back anywhere
I keep meaning to make a video about this, but never seem to have anyone there to film when we have those conditions. However here are some tips.
1) Timing and choosing where to enter is everything. You need to read the waves and get the timing right. There is always a lull in the waves at some time and also the backwash will help you get sucked out behind the waves if you time it right. Also choose the spot where you enter wisely. It can just be a matter of a few meters where the waves are slighly smaller, or the rip will help you more.
2) If you can still stand, keep the wing high out of the water.
3) Once you are deep enough to start to paddle, turn the board over and get on it. Put your feet on top of the wing behind you and paddle hard. Comit. Once you decide to go for it, comit to it. Do not hesitate. Just punch though the waves. Do not worry too much about the wing.
4) If you do get washed, try everything to keep a hold of the Board. The wings can take a beating. However if you loose the grip on your board, it will get washed into your wing. A nose handle really helps in this.
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Gunnar
These users thanked the author gmb13 for the post (total 3):
Dontsink (Wed Dec 09, 2020 10:17 am) • phlow (Wed Dec 09, 2020 6:01 pm) • yinnonhaviv (Tue Feb 02, 2021 9:04 am)
I keep meaning to make a video about this, but never seem to have anyone there to film when we have those conditions. However here are some tips.
1) Timing and choosing where to enter is everything. You need to read the waves and get the timing right. There is always a lull in the waves at some time and also the backwash will help you get sucked out behind the waves if you time it right. Also choose the spot where you enter wisely. It can just be a matter of a few meters where the waves are slighly smaller, or the rip will help you more.
2) If you can still stand, keep the wing high out of the water.
3) Once you are deep enough to start to paddle, turn the board over and get on it. Put your feet on top of the wing behind you and paddle hard. Comit. Once you decide to go for it, comit to it. Do not hesitate. Just punch though the waves. Do not worry too much about the wing.
4) If you do get washed, try everything to keep a hold of the Board. The wings can take a beating. However if you loose the grip on your board, it will get washed into your wing. A nose handle really helps in this.
--
Gunnar
I have successfully made it out on our bigger days every time now and the above comments are absolutely spot on and it is exactly what I have been doing. He uses the word "timing" I think of it more as "patience". I have stood at the edge looking at the breaking waves and thinking there is no way but if you wait long enough, there is always an opening. I have waited as long as 15 minutes. Step 3 is critical. A quick way I have found to get the wing under my foot is to just get on the board prone and then pull my hand that has the leash forward to bring the wing up to my feet.
Having said all that, I believe if you do this often enough, you will absolutely puncture your wing with your foil. I have been lucky so far but there are so many close calls every session that it is just a matter of time. This hazard is greater coming in than going out. If that risk is unacceptable, don't wing in surf.
I failed to get out through chest high shorebreak the other day. I lost hold of my wing, a wave got it and yanked it off my wrist, and as I turned to head in to get it, the next wave tumbled my board into me resulting in pretty big bruise on my leg. I did the same thing the previous day in the same conditions with no issues.
Show me anything decent for getting out through crappy large shore break, or dealing with a wipeout in the impact zone,.....and then I’ll take notice!
You won't see it because it does not exist. Just good timing (sometimes little luck) and choosing the right launch spot. On big wave days you need to launch from a harbor, protected bay, boat, pier anything which makes it possible. Wipeouts often mean a swim and walk to the original launch spot.
Dunno, i can't imagine Kai Lenny launching shyly from a harbour, much less walking back anywhere
In Kai Lenny's case launching from Maui's North shore spots with it's side shore winds and outer reefs is much easier than from a typical beach with onshore wind and shore brake.
turn the board over and get on it. Put your feet on top of the wing behind you and paddle hard. Comit.
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Gunnar
Gunnar - are you typically moving your wrist cuff to your ankle or belt leash or do you have a longer wrist leash which allows you to paddle aggressively unencumbered by elastic. F1 stock wrist leash engages at the top of my right arm stroke when paddling with the wing LE under my feet.
turn the board over and get on it. Put your feet on top of the wing behind you and paddle hard. Comit.
--
Gunnar
Gunnar - are you typically moving your wrist cuff to your ankle or belt leash or do you have a longer wrist leash which allows you to paddle aggressively unencumbered by elastic. F1 stock wrist leash engages at the top of my right arm stroke when paddling with the wing LE under my feet.
The Leashes I use are all long enough to stay on my wrist and still allow me to paddle hard. So I leave the leash on my wrist.
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Gunnar
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