To get the carbon sint of a base to absorb most ski waxes (for example Dominator Fx4) properly you have to heat the base to around 266F. Melting a high carbon sint base requires much more heat than that. It is unlikely that many are out there carrying speed to generate enough friction to exceed that and cause the base to literally melt. Non-sint old school extruded bases melt at lower temps but still...edt wrote: ↑Wed Jan 24, 2018 7:36 pmyeah the ice was pretty soft yesterday. I like hard ice better to be honest, it's better for my iceboard. I made a new iceboard, simple mounted hockey blades on a skateboard. Was out yesterday until after dark.
Two meter conditions
Don't sharpen the skis too much. After a hard sesh on ice, your base melts and the edges come off. Cheaper to just buy another set of 20 year old skis, they aren't more than $10-$20 at the used sports gear shop or craigslist. Yesterday was perfect for skis, the ice was soft. When the ice gets hard, it really increases how hot the skis get because all the grip is in the metal at least that's my theory.
Exactly Ski base damage is not because of melting but because of strain and vibration on the edges. This can happen if surface is hard and if kiter makes aggressive turns dozens of times. It can be very fun, but skis don't like it. So if surface is icy and even slightly rough it is best not to rip it like crazy.Hardwater Kiter wrote: ↑Thu Jan 25, 2018 1:22 pm
To get the carbon sint of a base to absorb most ski waxes (for example Dominator Fx4) properly you have to heat the base to around 266F. Melting a high carbon sint base requires much more heat than that. It is unlikely that many are out there carrying speed to generate enough friction to exceed that and cause the base to literally melt. Non-sint old school extruded bases melt at lower temps but still...
On the hardwater, your bases are delaminating at the edge due to the high pressures and high-frequency vibration when edging. More specifically in the process of stopping and/or turning. Initially, it starts as a microscopic gap between the base material and edge material. Then as you continue to ride, you are forcing ice into the gap everytime the ski is sideloaded. Occasionally this is done while carving but generally, it is a function of edging while stopping.
Eventually, enough ice will have been introduced to the inner areas between the edge and under the base, causing the base to rise slightly. This causes a stress riser and high friction point. The base material is thin and pliable. And enough friction is generated to allow the base to become more pliable. The result, eventually the base detaches and starts to get stretched and torn. The visual result is a somewhat wavey appearance that looks very fluid and just like melting.
Edge sharpness is only a factor here in that a sharp edge will bite better and result in more rigorous vibration occurring during poor turning and/or stopping technique. My edges are exceptionally sharp. I have literally thousands of miles on some skis without any base failure. And I've had brand new skis that I've abused and wrecked the edge mase material in about 15 minutes. Technique is key to longevity here. feathering the skis and flattening the edge while using the kite as a breaking element will protect your skis.
This all said. There are exceptions. Many modern DH race skis are coming with base inserts along the edge underfoot at the high-pressure areas that are prone to failure. This is to offset wear/damage from the ice on the race course. Ironically, on the kite, these inserts (made of a separate piece of higher density P-Tex) tend to loosen and fall out like a loose tooth. Then this proceeds to open the rest of the base to delamination.
I've pushed a bit past 40mph once or twice.edt wrote: Thanks. how fast do you ride on ice? 40+ mph? wonder if that matters
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