I, too, have been through lots of brands of waxes. Eventually I came across Hertel " super hot sauce". I found that given it's soft properties, I could rub it in with a wine cork at very low temperatures. This means I can wax right in the parking lot at the mountain each morning when I get up. This wax is also extremely fast at warmer temperatures, and comprable to every other cold wax at lower temperatures. I actually have not found a better warm wax that is hydrocarbon.
While I have thousands of dollars of tuning and waxing equipment, I use a very cheap kit for most of my needs now.
For a quick rub on of "Hertel", I use a block of Wax, colored on very well, and then rub it in quickly with a composite wine cork. I do impregnate the wine cork with wax before I put it into service. To wax impregnate, I just use my spoon cooker (spoon with a lighter under it), and heat up some wax fairly hot and set the tip of the cork in it. I then allow the wax to cool with the cork sitting in the wax so the wax is sucked up into the pores. I only do this once as once impregnated, the cork will always have wax in it as you will be rubbing over the top of wax colored on the board anyway.
I have not found any other wax that works with this, nor have I found any wax that is actually all temperature like Hertel is.
For a hot wax on my base, I use the same wax. One way to get around buying a waxing iron, though they are relatively cheap, is to use a heat gun. These can be had for as cheap as 8.99 at Harbor Freight. A $40 750 watt inverter can power a heat gun on low only. But that is enough to get the job done. That same inverter should power in 800 watt waxing iron too. And by using a heat gun with colored on wax, you use much less wax. Just make sure that you treat the heat gun like an iron where you don't want the wax to stay liquid on your base for very long. You will notice how much less wax you use as scraping is almost unnecessary. But when you do scrape you're not losing so much wax.
With the heat gun method, sometimes I will stainless steel brush a really ugly worn down structureless base, or brass brush a still visibly structured base. But with all of this, you have to realize that you're just snowkiting, and having a perfect base with no core shots, isn't absolutely necessary like it is on the hill.
While the above methods are absolutely fine for maintenance of a kite snowboard, if you have a really nice board that you want to use on the hill, I would use a more traditional wax iron and all of the accompanying Edge tuning equipment. To me though, you just don't need is nice of an edge and base for snowkiting. But you do want a nice edge and base on the hill.
Hertel wax has only one Achilles heel that I don't really care about because of how easy it is to reapply on edge burn at the end of a session or before a session in the parking lot. This issue is that the wax is a bit soft and rubs off fairly quickly in abrasive situations. However snotemp seems to not affect it, as cold or warm soft snow does not rip this wax off any quicker than any other hard based wax I've ever used. But it does have a tendency to get rubbed off quicker in icy conditions, or when playing on parking lot piles which have an obvious content of gravel and dirt mixed in.