Postby Hardwater Kiter » Sun Feb 06, 2022 3:50 pm
I misread your original post slightly.
Yes 15cm is the distance from the ski center.
You need to be one hole diameter away from the holes you want to avoid. Approximately 5mm.
Depending on what size boot the ski was originally mounted to, if there isn't too much hole interference with the toe position, with creative adjustment of the jig, you may be able to get very close to the factory recommended mount.
As these are essentially straight skis with no twin tip, I'm guessing you are using them for mostly straightline cruising. (Not riding switch etc...)
This being the case, if you shift mounting position forward, the ski will be less stable at speed and easier to turn.
Conversely if you shift your mount rearward the ski will be more stable at speed and more difficult to turn.
This said, "more" in either case in this situation unless you are banging out slalom style turns, or are wrestling the ski in grabby crust, or if these are the ski you ski all the time on the hill, it's unlikely that you would notice a huge difference in either direction.
Additionally, you could eliminate the hole interference issue with the addition of some flavor of lifter plate. This will give you the benefit of placing the binding where you want but with the added benefit of elimination of boot out at some of the edge angles we see with aggressive edging on a kite.
When you drill the top sheet, make note of the shavings and if there is metal in them. If so, the ski will need to be tapped to avoid delamination of the mounting plate.
And obviously use some type of waterproof glue in the holes before you install the screws. This lubes the screws during installation and both seals things and dampens vibration to keep them from becoming loose over time.
Aaaand, seal the old holes with plugs, wax or glue or anything to keep water from accessing the core, freezing and delaminating the ski.
Hope this helps.