SS DC Micro and 633/683

[trod27]

I have read some forums about the Micro track being not far enough back? I ride the DC 42" regular and the tracks are ~2" further back looking at photos and having friends measure.
I ride it fine and ride strapless.
Question who here rides the Micro with 633 or 683s? Does it ride good? Should I buy one If I want a lighter board and like SS boards?
Any feedback would be great as I am close to pulling trigger on new board.

[oregonkiter]

I ride the non micro 36 DC with a 105 cm mast and the 633 strapless. I am all the way back and use an extra set of mounting holes that my mast base comes with to be back 2.5 cm farther. I am tall: 6' 3". I think the 633 will work on the Mirco if you ride strapless. I would estimate that your front foot will be on top of your farthest forward screw holes for the front strap. For me, this feels a bit too close to the front of the board, but I think that's mostly a visual thing. If you use a front strap I am not sure you will be happy.

I too really like the DC 36 series from SS. I do think that the micro track should be back 5cm for bigger wings.

[omg]

if you want SS board then ignore the following: why don't you get the Moses t22? Much lighter and works well with 633 (I have that combo).

[grigorib]

I rode Micro strapless with 633 and mast all the way back. It’s working good, you wish it was possible to move mast another inch back but it works good.
Stringy’s custom fuselage (one on top in attached picture) takes care of the issue having mast positioned forward

[trod27]

Good feedback.
Looking into T22 now but I can get Micro cheaper. And the T22 only has one option to mount (no tracks) but seems 633/638 work well on it.

Grig if I drill extra holes in my mast plate that will give me extra room to move back. I did this for my original GW's (I even called SS and they said it was ok to do), older GW have multiple holes. This would give me another ~1" to move back? Drilling it seemed scary but was easy and I have done it on two mast total because I have Newind board with the shorter mast bolt position.
Reluctant to buy another fuse. Plus i want to end up on 683 which should help. Also I could shim rear stab up?
I have Micro back ordered but they should be available in another week so trying to decide now

[grigorib]

Good feedback.
Looking into T22 now but I can get Micro cheaper. And the T22 only has one option to mount (no tracks) but seems 633/638 work well on it.

Grig if I drill extra holes in my mast plate that will give me extra room to move back. I did this for my original GW's (I even called SS and they said it was ok to do), older GW have multiple holes. This would give me another ~1" to move back? Drilling it seemed scary but was easy and I have done it on two mast total because I have Newind board with the shorter mast bolt position.
Reluctant to buy another fuse. Plus i want to end up on 683 which should help. Also I could shim rear stab up?
I have Micro back ordered but they should be available in another week so trying to decide now

I have that "older" 105cm GW mast with multiple holes which you mentioned (beats me by what standard there's no 165mm spacing on it but there's 160mm and 140mm) but even mounting 633 with it onto Micro I didn't need to use any of "inside" additional holes, just the outer ones - so i had freedom to move it more back if I felt less than comfortable. But as I said it worked good and I didn't even bother to go back to re-mount the mast.

Shimming works as I figured out with my 450 stabilizer - just 1.4mm washer under rear stabilizer bolt resulted in instant 2" front foot position change

Drilling the mast sounds like a last option to me. But back in 90's a story of booting a PC motherboard on a good EPROM chip and then pulling it out from up and running system, inserting an "empty" chip and reprogramming BIOS sounded like a crazy stunt story too. But then I botched a BIOS upgrade and risked that - it worked

I can highly recommend 633, 683s and Micro board - those are great (and 683s takes less front foot pressure)

[TomW]

I've dissed the dwarfcraft boards before. I had one and used it with my Moses 590 wing. I think they are poorly designed ( at least for moses foils). They have hardly any nose scoop and are prone to submarine in light winds at start and torpedo on touch downs. The moses T22,38 or Kahana shapes or groove skate or levitaz ( and Ketos the original banana rocker board) are better designed.
Yea, even a flat piece of plywood will work, but if you're buying a production product, why not get one that is well designed for its purpose?