Pocket board building

[thewindego]

Maybe the cold blank keeps the viscosity of the resin thicker so can't bleed in?

[handy]

a lightweight balsa blank has still a lot of air in it. So when the cold blank comes in the oven, the air well expand immediately and not suck the resin in.

[handy]

Handy, I think I understand the idea. The peel ply is limiting how fast epoxy can absord.
What I don't understand is why keeping blank cold is important.
Don't have an oven but could build a temporary one out of eps blocks and use a space heater.
I can do a test with a control part...

Building epoxy boards without an oven to post cure the boards is like building a computer with a stone ax.
Even if your epoxy supplier says no need to post cure, you will gain a lot of strength by post cure it.

[downunder]

How much is balsa in Sweden?

Not sure what you are trying to prove with balsa, the volume is not that bigger than just a plain plank of wood.

And Handy, its one thing a TT style build and SB I would argue none of epoxy SB are cured.

[handy]

"And Handy, its one thing a TT style build and SB I would argue none of epoxy SB are cured"

you're for sure right with that, and maybe this is way this boards fail after a short time.And this also doesn't mean one has to do the same mistakes as the big companies.
Building an oven ist 2 hrs of work and well invested, but hey, to every one his on party. Mine is post curing .

Btw , i'm in Cabarete at the moment, and have seen a board yesterday that I did build in oct. 2010, the owner runs a kite school in Cabaret, was riding that board for 2 years himself, and now it is in the rental fleet since 7 years.

[downunder]

Ok,

Thats great to hear. However, wood has this nasty behavior in the heat box which Im sure we well know about Closed cell core does not. Two different things.


Just to clarify, I am all for curing but with a silicone blanket and a PID. Much better control.

You do not want a heat box and wood core. You want a vac and a silicone blanket with proper temp control.

Vac is the only way to use carbon with no air pockets possibly forming on such big flat areas. Sure, using 80g FG and hand layup might work on balsa but why risking? But carbon in 80g? Nope. And to wet out this light carbon is a bugger all.

Or do not use wood core coz Murphy will kick in at some stage.

[TomW]

Balsa planks are available in many thickness and 3 densities to me locally. 2 day delivery to door.
I can use it with very little waste.
Paulownia is basically unavailable in correct dimensions and is 4x the density.
I can get PVC foam sheets locally but have to buy large quantity to make it economical. Plus I have to cover the ugly foam in expensive carbon, which I don't like to grind , even a little lapp.
Myself and many others like the wood look.
My other option is to use a white surfboard blank, but it's huge waste and shipping is expensive. None available locally. I've used Surfboard blanks for years.
I can build a balsa blank for about 60€.
I'd like to get some nice veneer for the deck, but having trouble finding right size and type of wood at reasonable price.
I'd like to hear more about the silicon blanket and PID. Links to knowledge / systems to buy appreciated.

[downunder]

Ok,

the PU 1200/600/50mm foam is $10 here. No sanding, only hot wire.

The blanket is documented in here: http://boardbuilders-forum.1077691.n5.n ... html#a1225

Mat did his blanket as well, search above forum.

The guy here has 15mm wood board, carbon on bottom and huge kicker for extra buoyancy. Stiff as rock. Absolutely no need for top carbon, it is a waste of time and money. Plus, it's locally sourced wood, not Paulownia, made in S. Africa.

[downunder]

Tom

I have no idea how come you do not know this:

http://www.junksupply.com/product/paulo ... tra-thick/

34.50 Euros for 12mm Paulovnia plank in Malmo? In your own neighborhood?

Man....Better get this cores while Mirsad still have them.

[omg]

with these thinner, say 1cm wood sheets, how do you make the nose rocker, if you want for example 5cm? I mean if you glue 5 sheets on top of each other to the nose, how do you get the carve out the material from the topside, please? From the underside it's not problematic, just sanding, but topside is a different story?