3d printed titanium inserts

[downunder]

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I've never had and insert pull out, and these will be more located and checked in than my last waterjet cut parts.
I'd much rather have to replace a bolt that's stripped or damaged than than try and repair and insert.
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The number of people did. This is Xenon I've fixed last season:

So here is a thought, how would this look if there was a plate with 3-4 inserts?

The reason you did not pull the insert all this years is a bamboo core

[plummet]

Maybe it's the fact that I'm running a thinner core and more reinforcement layers?
Not sure. I've never have one pull out yet.

But hey, there is always a first.

[TomW]

Wow Plummet. 45*5 = 225 dollars for 5 inserts?? My whole board material cost is that.

I can get bigheads for 2,25 usd each. That would be 9 usd for a 4 up set-up. M6 x 15mm deep.
Get them in the UK. Easycomposites.co.uk.
Is shipping that much??

[plummet]

Wow Plummet. 45*5 = 225 dollars for 5 inserts?? My whole board material cost is that.

I can get bigheads for 2,25 usd each. That would be 9 usd for a 4 up set-up. M6 x 15mm deep.
Get them in the UK. Easycomposites.co.uk.
Is shipping that much??

Keep in mind that the TI inserts improve the design by increasing corrosion resistance and reducing the chance of galling. It should increase the life span of the board.
Also, the initial set fee is incorporated into that price. Successive orders would see the price almost halve in cost depending on QTY. I only need 4 inserts, But I'm getting one extra just so I can stick in my toolbox and look at it because of its cool as f***.

$9 usd x = $14 nzd plus freight. Less allow $6 per peice for freight. $20 each. Half the price for something not suited to what I want, that I have to cut down and will corrode sooner? No dice! Plus successive orders will be close in price to the Standard ss insert.........

This is a board for me. It is not a mass-produced board for the masses. I can decadently indulge in my design whims. One of which is getting some 3d printed TI. I have other designs for mountain bike parts I also want to print. This is a good trial for metal 3d printing process.

Oh lastly. My core is 6mm thick where the inserts are. Standard T nuts don't fit without grinding down.

[Europ2]

Plummet, very nice project. To prevent water infiltration, shouldn't the inserts be blind so that you don't damage the composite underneath if using too long screws ? It would need a bit more materials but printing time would be equivalent or slightly faster (1rst thickness being continuous)

TI inserts.jpg (23.98 KiB) Viewed 1587 times

[plummet]

Plummet, very nice project. To prevent water infiltration, shouldn't the inserts be blind so that you don't damage the composite underneath if using too long screws ? It would need a bit more materials but printing time would be equivalent or slightly faster (1rst thickness being continuous)

TI inserts.jpg

Good question. Why do i not have blind inserts.

The answer is two fold.
A) My insert is only 5.5mm thick (the board core is 6mm).
B) 3d printed threads still need a clean up with a tap after printing.

Because my 5.5mm insert does not have the depth to get a tap in to clean up the thread I have a pilot hole to allow the trapered head of the tap to protude during thread clean up.
Note that the thread extends to 5.25mm. So the the bolt will bottom out before impacting the reinforcement layers.

[plummet]

Ohhhhhhh.........

4 inserts 20 grams.

[nixmatters]

Ohhhhhhh.........

4 inserts 20 grams.

20190823_084945.jpg

Nice!!!
Seems you did get some rough texture to increase surface area and enhance adhesion.
I guess you won't be fine polishing them for better look?

[fluidity]

Looking good Plummet!
Hopefully they tap a lot easier than the brass infiltrated stainless steel metal bits I've tested from Shapeways a few times! I thinks it's the SS micro balls that blunten taps on it. Always extra special to get your own design in the courier when it's been done in a really high definition process. Last time I set T nuts into a board I pre-filled the thread with bluetack, then I hold up to the light, countersunk and when I dig the bluetack out my thread is ready to go.

[plummet]

Yeah, there's lots of adhesion.
Yes indeed it is super cool to get you our designs in your hands.

Tapping is easy as! And the thread bottoms out perfectly flush as per my plan.

Not this was slm process. Selective laser melt. They don't use any fillers or resins it's all titanium