kitebar center hole alternative

[jaros]

I have seen a production piece, that bolts on the carbon tube and has a metal line slider in it, but can not find a picture anymore and do not know what is the name of this piece. Anyone can help me?

And while being on the subject - who is using a kitebar without the hole trough the center of the tube? Do you find it ok (for foiling only)? Any + / - ?
How is it made? Post pictures if you can please.
I like the idea of leaving the carbon tube intact in the middle…
Thanks,
Jaros

[faklord]

I have seen a production piece, that bolts on the carbon tube and has a metal line slider in it, but can not find a picture anymore and do not know what is the name of this piece. Anyone can help me?

And while being on the subject - who is using a kitebar without the hole trough the center of the tube? Do you find it ok (for foiling only)? Any + / - ?
How is it made? Post pictures if you can please.
I like the idea of leaving the carbon tube intact in the middle…
Thanks,
Jaros

Try googling ‘Fairlead’
Maybe your thinking of something like this? https://www.tridentuk.com/gb/product-2- ... 052-2.html
To keep it clean you could fill the middle part of the tube with something and drill & tap from one side only.
You can get a stanchion fairelead that clamps on to a tube but I think it would get in the way.

[jaros]

Try googling ‘Fairlead’
Maybe your thinking of something like this? https://www.tridentuk.com/gb/product-2- ... 052-2.html
To keep it clean you could fill the middle part of the tube with something and drill & tap from one side only.
You can get a stanchion fairelead that clamps on to a tube but I think it would get in the way.

Thanks Faklord! "Stanchion Fairlead" was the word. I guess this is what I saw:

Stanchion Mounted Fairlead.jpg (70.21 KiB) Viewed 2463 times

Now that I saw it again, I also think it might get in the way, like you said… Anyone using this?
Jaros

[AndersP]

From cloudriders.
Takes a bit of enginering inside the tube.

[omg]

From cloudriders.
Takes a bit of enginering inside the tube.

That looks good, but how do you attach it to the bar, anything you can share with us, please?

[faklord]

From cloudriders.
Takes a bit of enginering inside the tube.

That looks good, but how do you attach it to the bar, anything you can share with us, please?

There are a couple options here:
1) You could fill the centre of the bar with something solid (eg epoxy or plastic bar). Then drill and tap to accept an eyebolt.This would then use the threads as a bearing surface, to allow the eyebolt to swivel. If you went this route, I wouldn't be surprised if, over time, sand/salt got into the threads and stopped the eyebolt from swivelling.

2) Far more elegant (and relatively simple if you have access to a 3d printer). Use a locking nut inside the bar:

Screenshot 2019-09-03 at 13.03.58.png (49.03 KiB) Viewed 2334 times

This comprises of:
6mm eyebolt, washer & nyloc nut all in stainless steel


Two 3d printed parts:

Outside the bar (and not essential)

Screenshot 2019-09-03 at 13.04.41.png (14.95 KiB) Viewed 2334 times

Inside the bar (this is essential to give a flat platform for the nut to rotate on)

Screenshot 2019-09-03 at 13.05.30.png (11.08 KiB) Viewed 2334 times

Finally. You need to make a 'spanner' to fit the nut, but this doesn't have to be very strong as you don't have to do the nut up tight, just overcome the friction of the locking thread. I just cut a slot in a piece of mild steel strip but you might even get away with hardwood (or a printed part that you push in from one side, then push out from the other?)

The external printed part can be bonded to the bar with 'super glue'.
Instead of a self locking nut a normal nut could be used with a thread locker (eg Loctite)

For info. I have made a bar like this (which is why I have the CAD files) but it is not yet in use, as I am still sorting out bar ends. It's a bit of a fiddle to assemble but quite possible. If using bar ends, it is preferable to have at least one that is removable in case maintenance is required.

A couple of things to bear in mind:
1) As long as you are not unhooking, the forces on the eyebolt should be relatively low and even if it comes adrift it shouldn't be catastrophic...you should be able to kite back to shore, though it might feel a bit weird!
2) There is potential for lines to get snagged on the eyebolt

[collider]

There are also folks using a low friction ring:
viewtopic.php?p=1057943#p1057943

[faklord]

There are also folks using a low friction ring:
viewtopic.php?p=1057943#p1057943

Yes. I think that is what “LFR” refers to in the CloudRiders screenshot that AndersP posted above?

[faklord]

From cloudriders.
Takes a bit of enginering inside the tube.

That looks good, but how do you attach it to the bar, anything you can share with us, please?

Just looked at that CloudRiders post. When asked the same question, the author wrote “...I made a 3D insert with an embedded nut. I made a video of the process which I have to edit. A barrel nut inside a tube that fits inside the bar is an easier option. I though of it after making this one.”

[airsail]

I was going to build a bar using this idea, even bought the bits. But decided against it due to the possible damage caused to the rail of the board if dragged over the board in a crash. I can imagine that ring hitting the rail at speed would go straight through.