should water stick to the wing?

[naishdude]

The idea is simple....water on water no friction...so smooth sanded surfaces ...are the logic result..trick used in all competition waterspirts
Dude

[GregK]

...water on water ...

still has friction, but more commonly called viscosity.

[deniska]

what would be TEK017 paint equivalent in US?

[Wazza Foil]

Just wondering what speed one needs to be doing to notice the benefit of all this effort?
I foil mostly below 30 kph.

[kgb]

So feedback is don’t spray lacquer it

But you still want to?

[deniska]

Just wondering what speed one needs to be doing to notice the benefit of all this effort?
I foil mostly below 30 kph.

Does not matter at those speeds. We are talking above 25-28mph

[kgb]

Omg that’s so fast!

[Foil]

Just wondering what speed one needs to be doing to notice the benefit of all this effort?
I foil mostly below 30 kph.

The thing is if you do the work and get all surfaces 100% perfect, then you certainly feel the difference as soon as you start to pick up speed, silky smooth all the way up to the wings maximum speed, and using a speed watch shows this very well

As it is the wings maximum speed, it's hard if not impossible to break through and go faster, unless you get catapulted off and record that moment of extra speed

Any degradation of the perfect condition can normally be felt quite easily and depending how poor the surfaces have been degraded then the effect on stability and maximum speed is directly felt and can be measured.

Even if you don't push to maximum speed how do you know your kit is giving it's best feedback to you the rider,
For me It's important to know my kit is giving it's best

Only then I know it's all my fault when things go so badly wrong, either that or I can of course blame some seaweed

[vman]

Good info,
thanks Foil and others...
I tried the red glazing compound in Delta's videos - it works, but a bit messy, for my taste..
For small scratches I would love to get something that I can spray on and then polish..
Also lacquer seemed like more solid finish, comparing to the red acrylic stuff that you can scratch with a finger, literally.. and being clear and not bright red is also a big plus in my book.. The delta guy never mentioned coating the "red" with something else...just curious if anyone has some other recipes...

yes, the red pin hole filler is not durable and if used for scratches is quite rubbish, great for pin holes though.

for scratches-
fine scratches, sand scuffs, can be covered easily using the acrylic matt paint above, that works just great, this stuff is so good for that.
for deeper shell and stone scratches, then using one of the many fast setting epoxy fillers work well, again using a old store card to smear a very fine layer over the scratch and finish with hard sponge and wet paper, any air holes in the epoxy need a re visit.

the pin holes in the carbon do not cover well at all using paint or 2 part epoxy, don't know why, maybe epoxy just will not sink into the tiny little holes and the air inside them little holes warms up and blows out through the epoxy, i have found only the glass finishing putty works for this, and as recommended above hiding the red dots with felt tip marker works a treat.

JB marine epoxy works great but takes well over 18hrs to cure in a warm room, a right pain if you need the wing the same day. like when on holiday.
below.
Steve recently found this fast setting epoxy for our holidays starting tomorrow, hope we don't need it

what would you advise for the whole mast with pinholes? moses 111

[Foil]

Steve my sailing buddy has recently done this on his pin hole ridden 101 full carbon moses mast, he first of all matted the surfaces down with 600 paper exposing all the pin holes which were clearly causing problems at higher speeds, he did the full glass compound treatment, and then 1200 paper and finally 2000 paper, it took little time, and he now says the mast is super silent and faster than ever, as his gps watch confirms,
he has not bothered giving the mast a final finish with the acrylic paint detailed above, so to me, the mast looks a bit very well used, and i may be tempted to do the last step of paint finish, but steve is happy not to as he is so chuffed with the difference in feel and in verified performance, but remember his mast was getting bad with the original surface finish just sort of falling off in small patches and feeling rough to the touch.my mast is still perfect but has had the 1200 grit paper treatment to remove the first layer of factory paint and the trailing edge treatment, its perfect now as its so smooth and completely silent at top speed so i wont touch it just in case.