Which bar shortens the depower throw then? Bars with or without PU, the depower throw is always the same no matter how much you shorten the frontline.
Looks like I am living in the past as it appears that most if not all above the bar adjustments don’t change the throw. Regardless if there is pu on the mainlines going through the bar.
Below the bar Adjustment does appear to still change the sheeting range but
The above the bar is limited in throw by arm length so below the bar or rear line adjustment systems normally have a longer throw.
I'll probably get fired for this, but when it comes to freeride/freestyle on a twintip, I think the click bar not only is not necessary, but in some ways might prevent the rider to develop some skills that might help you to evolve as a kiter (I don't know nothing about waves or foiling, so can't speak about that).
I think one should always avoid to trim the kite at all costs, except for some very specific situations, like board recovery in overpowered conditions. IMHO, how you handle your kite power is much more related to board control than to the kite itself and how you trim it, and generally, any kite trimmed for depower loses performance. If you learn to use proper board stance to control kite power, trimming becomes secondary and the only thing you need to do is downsize when the wind really picks up. The click bar makes so easy to depower the kite that when you hit a gust you just click the bar and there it is, everything becomes more confortable. However, using the board properly is even easier once you learn how to.
About that subject, I would recommend some great videos:
These users thanked the author oksman for the post:
So you're basically promoting the click bar.
If you don't want to trim, then you should use a bar that doesn't have any trimming clutter. Just like the click bar.
After all, it's still the kiter's choice to trim or not. Having a click bar or a classic system doesn't change anything to that choice.
More to go wrong, heavier, harder to repair, more downtime waiting for repair, more expensive to maintain, if they break when somewhere remote kiting - you are ruined, and wear you may not see before failure, overall way more expensive in a sport that already has enough problems. Basic engineering 123
I'd also rather not be fiddling around on the steering end of a bar, especially when way overpowered coming in hot
Keep it simple, lets get click bars and the like back in the bin and back into the minds of so called engineers where they belong and can stay.
Clickbars? Don't be ridiculous.
Click bars and fluorescent yellow life jackets with the neck pieces are good "DANGER! keep clear." signs no doubt.
I wouldn't say the click bar is anymore expensive to maintain than a Naish product, and they can be bought for similar at the right time of year. Being overpowered on a SB with a BTB bar is no fun at all on the arms.
Replacement parts on my Naish fusion would cost £70 (Depower/inset/safety) The whole sport is expensive, no need to throw shade on a modern solution.
These users thanked the author ScoopZ for the post:
The click bar is heavier than the trust bar but it is not hard to maintain. When I go to a remote spot, I take two of everything. That is remote spot 101 planning.
There is really only ne part that I would be concerned with not being able to jury rig. I’d just buy a spare in advance if I was that concerned, just like I bring an extra set of fins, kite repair stuff etc.
If I am overpowered I would much rather depower the kite with a click of a button than mess with a cleat.
I actually thought the trust bar cleat was a bit fussy to get set right.
The click bar is not perfect and it is expensive.
I’ve had a pair of click bars for two years and and it looks like I am going for another year. Any maintenance issues have been with the lines and not the functioning of the click mechanism.
So to me the bar is worth it. Others might not feel that way. Fortunately there are other options.
The click bar is heavier than the trust bar but it is not hard to maintain. When I go to a remote spot, I take two of everything. That is remote spot 101 planning.
Ummmmmm......???????? Is not "remote spot 101 planning" all about NOT having some super technological impossible to jury rigg contraption that you are relying on?????
Would not your backup be something that has no gears or special tools to take apart and fix?
The click bar is heavier than the trust bar but it is not hard to maintain. When I go to a remote spot, I take two of everything. That is remote spot 101 planning.
Ummmmmm......???????? Is not "remote spot 101 planning" all about NOT having some super technological impossible to jury rigg contraption that you are relying on?????
Would not your backup be something that has no gears or special tools to take apart and fix?
Have you taken a click bar apart? I think you over estimate the complexity.
The only special too you need is an Allen wrench. The same size you use to tighten your fin screws.
I’m sure in a pinch I could fabricate something as a replacement for the click part. Or just run equal length flexed lines.
I think you are really stretching hard to come up with reasons to dislike the duotone click or ocean rodeo stick shift bars.