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foilholio
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Postby foilholio » Tue Jan 14, 2020 11:02 pm
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Herman
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Postby Herman » Mon Jan 27, 2020 5:44 pm
Maximum AC
Just received line in photo from eBay. Looks like a reasonable starting point, would not go thinner. Took just a couple of minutes to do the trial splice without taper. Wire shown is the outer winding of a low E guitar string pulled straight.
Regards Herman
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jakemoore
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Postby jakemoore » Mon Jan 27, 2020 6:38 pm
Herman wrote: ↑Mon Jan 27, 2020 5:44 pm
Took just a couple of minutes to do the trial splice without taper. Wire shown is the outer winding of a low E guitar string pulled straight.
Nicely done. Many years ago Flysurfer had a .pdf of splicing instructions. They suggested using an X-Acto knife to cut the line at an acute angle creating the taper as it is impractical to separate the strands of such a small line.
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Herman
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Postby Herman » Mon Jan 27, 2020 8:02 pm
^ Sounds like good advice from Jakemoore, particularly as it's 16 strand. I will be just cutting my tapers as well with this fine stuff.
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foilholio
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Postby foilholio » Tue Jan 28, 2020 11:31 pm
I just use scissors to cut tappers. The tapper to get the line to stick in the wire loop vs for the splice can be a bit different though sometimes. It's important the splices are at least 80-100x diameter or more in length for full strength. And if you stitch them only stitch the more loop end of the splice not the taper/line end. Stitching damages the line. If you stitched the bare line or near it it will lose strength.
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MaximumAC
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Postby MaximumAC » Wed Jan 29, 2020 3:54 am
Thanks for the info all. I ended up buying 0.8mm hollow core spectra (the cheap stuff) off of amazon and making a splicing tool with the high E of a guitar string I just replaced. The 0.8mm is a little thick for the bridle I replaced but I doubt it will make any difference. Between this and splicing Amsteel and double braid for a FS bar rebuild, it was quite the weekend.
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