Here you can exchange your experience and datas about your home build boards
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jakemoore
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Postby jakemoore » Thu Mar 12, 2020 2:37 am
Regis-de-giens wrote: ↑Thu Mar 12, 2020 1:03 am
would like to find a plastic part that hold together the two lines near the bar to freeze it on request and release if i think i'll adjust. A two position device: lock/unlock . I
One pump hose clamp?
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Faxie
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Postby Faxie » Thu Mar 12, 2020 5:03 am
Regis-de-giens wrote: ↑Thu Mar 12, 2020 1:03 am
Thanks evan. I think that one other good compromise is to have 2 eyesxon top and one higher friction (-no plastic eyes), at the bottom. That way you have friction under tension but almost no friction during adjustment. I'll test this next time. Ideally, as i trim once orctwice in a session ony, i would like to find a plastic part that hold together the two lines near the bar to freeze it on request and release if i think i'll adjust. A two position device: lock/unlock . I was also thinking of two turns aroung the bottom eye, to be tested...
Cheers
Plastic clamp from a pullstring bag?
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Regis-de-giens
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Postby Regis-de-giens » Thu Mar 12, 2020 1:32 pm
jakemoore wrote: ↑Thu Mar 12, 2020 2:37 am
Regis-de-giens wrote: ↑Thu Mar 12, 2020 1:03 am
would like to find a plastic part that hold together the two lines near the bar to freeze it on request and release if i think i'll adjust. A two position device: lock/unlock . I
One pump hose clamp?
Yeah, good idea to be tested .
But plastic clamp from pullstring bag require to keep pushing to release, so two hands needed..
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Mikey
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Postby Mikey » Mon Apr 13, 2020 1:59 pm
Hi Guys,
Using just loops tied in the leader line, for use as a bar position adjuster to substitute a BRM front line adjuster knots; so, very little on the water adjustment, would it be cleaner being tuned upside down? This way, you could pull the sliders towards you to depower rather than have to push away... especially with a long throw (depowered) bar being hard to reach.
What am I missing?
Mike
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BalsaMichel
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Postby BalsaMichel » Mon Apr 13, 2020 2:21 pm
Hi,
this one is my draft version of a rear line adjuster bar. It uses a small ClamCleat and an internal Y-connected backlines. But this is discontinued for the moment (lack of time).
- These users thanked the author BalsaMichel for the post (total 2):
- alekbelia (Mon Apr 13, 2020 3:50 pm) • merl (Mon Apr 13, 2020 7:48 pm)
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Herman
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Postby Herman » Mon Apr 13, 2020 6:39 pm
Here is a suggestion for a reasonable lock on the adjuster. Just use spliced loops for friction apart from the last one which is at the adjustment loop. On this one use a figure of eight and leave a long tail. The tail can then be used to adjust or tie a hitch for a lock instead of using some plastic part. Hopefully photos are attached of unlocked and locked:
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Last edited by
Herman on Mon Apr 13, 2020 6:47 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Herman
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Postby Herman » Mon Apr 13, 2020 6:43 pm
Locked, extra hitch's could be used for a stronger lock. The tail also helps you find the adjuster......
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Mikey
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Postby Mikey » Mon Apr 13, 2020 7:22 pm
Herman,
excellent, thanks
what's you're take on turning it all upside down?
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merl
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Postby merl » Mon Apr 13, 2020 7:48 pm
BalsaMichel wrote: ↑Mon Apr 13, 2020 2:21 pm
Hi,
this one is my draft version of a rear line adjuster bar. It uses a small ClamCleat and an internal Y-connected backlines. But this is discontinued for the moment (lack of time).
2020-04-13 15.11.12.jpgBar001.jpg
Nice. Do you have plans for the bar ends that you could share?
If you put the cleat on the bottom of the bar then you can use elastic like on the pinxo bar rather than having a line flapping around.
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Herman
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Postby Herman » Mon Apr 13, 2020 8:17 pm
Mikey
Have not tried it upside down. In fact I have only used these where I very rarely adjust. That has not been a strategic choice it has just happened that way. I can not think of a reason why it should not work upside down so worth a try imho.
Regards Herman
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