Stringer in small foilbord?

[TomW]

Are you guys are winding me up?

Jake, save some work and drop in a high density foam block and put the tracks in that.
Then do symmetric lamination top and bottom. An asymmetrical laminate is a waste of materials when building a cantilevered beam. Its basic engineering. Only exception is adding deck patch for compression strength.
If you don't have any unid carbon to add to both sides, you can add lams of glass 160 mm wide , make them progressively shorter , keeping all layers under the mast. Do the same on deck. Symmetry!!.

[TomW]

If using xps or low density eps. 6 oz glass. Both sides!

[JakeFarley]

Thanks TomW - did not mean to wind you up...

Also thought about getting this track box - https://www.mackiteboarding.com/ride-en ... track-box/
Available June 2020.

[TomW]

Thanks TomW - did not mean to wind you up...

Also thought about getting this track box - https://www.mackiteboarding.com/ride-en ... track-box/
Available June 2020.

you can buy that. It will save work. Other option is to buy the boxes separate and get some HD foam and build it yourself. You might save 30-40 dollars if you shop around.
building it yourself is easier that the process of adding stringers and then the boxes. The stringers are not going to replace the need for HD foam anyway.

Im in EU, so i buy BigHeads from EasyComposites in UK. Then i embed 4 of these in HD foam blocks in fixed position. Im riding strapless and know where the foil should be on board, so no need for adjustment.
The Bigheads cost 2.20$ each. So 9$ a board.

[kollac]

you can buy that. It will save work. Other option is to buy the boxes separate and get some HD foam and build it yourself. You might save 30-40 dollars if you shop around.
building it yourself is easier that the process of adding stringers and then the boxes. The stringers are not going to replace the need for HD foam anyway.

Im in EU, so i buy BigHeads from EasyComposites in UK. Then i embed 4 of these in HD foam blocks in fixed position. Im riding strapless and know where the foil should be on board, so no need for adjustment.
The Bigheads cost 2.20$ each. So 9$ a board.

Hey Tom - I've been wondering about this. I've followed your builds and appreciate how clean they are. How have you determined the optimal position for the mast with respect to the board? Is there a rule, formula, whatever? I'm new to foiling and love to play in my shop so a foilboard is on the list for some time this year. Thanks!

[jumptheshark]

Rails are Probably nice but unnecessary on a dedicated strapless board. My pocket board has three sets of inserts. Pretty sure it would accommodate almost any plate mount foil.

[TomW]

you can buy that. It will save work. Other option is to buy the boxes separate and get some HD foam and build it yourself. You might save 30-40 dollars if you shop around.
building it yourself is easier that the process of adding stringers and then the boxes. The stringers are not going to replace the need for HD foam anyway.

Im in EU, so i buy BigHeads from EasyComposites in UK. Then i embed 4 of these in HD foam blocks in fixed position. Im riding strapless and know where the foil should be on board, so no need for adjustment.
The Bigheads cost 2.20$ each. So 9$ a board.

Hey Tom - I've been wondering about this. I've followed your builds and appreciate how clean they are. How have you determined the optimal position for the mast with respect to the board? Is there a rule, formula, whatever? I'm new to foiling and love to play in my shop so a foilboard is on the list for some time this year. Thanks!

Short story: depends on foil, and somewhat your personal style. There's no formula, that's why production boards use tracks.

Long story:
I started with a big Moses T40. I was really just beginning, the first 3 times on the water and realized the board was way too large. And rear screws for mast plate were 250mm from the tail. It seemed excessive. So I reinforced a 5-0 surfboard I had built and put the mast 200mm from the tail. Then I learned on it. After 50 hours I knew where I was putting my feet and my rear foot was never behind the mast plate. I was on moses 550 then.
I built a dedicated foil board 135cm long and moved it back to 150mm. I spent another 50 hours on it. Then built a 120cm and moved rear screws to 100mm. By this time i got the 590 wing and then the 633 wing. My stance was a bit more forward on the 633. I still had tail not used. Then I built a 90cm, 105 cm and 110 cm board series. Moved it back to 80mm at rear holes.
All of these boards worked really well. So now i build all my boards with 80mm to rear screws. Now i am on Gong Pro M and it has same stance as moses 633. The gong i can do poo stance and move rear foot back and push upwind hard. I still have my Little kick pad behind my rear foot.

[cleepa]

Thanks TomW - did not mean to wind you up...

Also thought about getting this track box - https://www.mackiteboarding.com/ride-en ... track-box/
Available June 2020.

you can buy that. It will save work. Other option is to buy the boxes separate and get some HD foam and build it yourself. You might save 30-40 dollars if you shop around.
building it yourself is easier that the process of adding stringers and then the boxes. The stringers are not going to replace the need for HD foam anyway.

Im in EU, so i buy BigHeads from EasyComposites in UK. Then i embed 4 of these in HD foam blocks in fixed position. Im riding strapless and know where the foil should be on board, so no need for adjustment.
The Bigheads cost 2.20$ each. So 9$ a board.

You can buy a track box embedded in HD foam from AliExpress for about 20 USD.

[BWD]

I made my ~144 x 49 x 2.3ish cm convertible foil/surf directional entirely of corecell A500 lammed with staggered layers of 6oz carbon twill similar to what tomw shows and hit 3kg on the mark.
That includes up to 5 layers where the foil attaches and 4 futures finboxes for surface riding, but no tracks.
And it has a 4mm okume partial stringer from foil attachment to front foot position. Plus two ~15cm mini stringers reinforcing the front edge of the foil plate area. Overall 2 layers in general plus a third as deck patch. Overkill build but still ok weight.
The point? Go for simple and strong!
3kg larger board or <2kg hd core small board is possible without vacuum or complications.
I probably could have had 2.6-2.7 kg if I dropped the finboxes and stringers from my large board...
Just something to think about.

[bay surfer]

I used two cedar stringers, made it really easy to shape the board, and I did not connect them to the boxes, but the board is the depth of the boxes, so almost all the load is transferred to the stringers through the carbon and glass and the boxes were easy to insert after putting the first layer of carbon on top, no need to buy expensive ones already in foam. Hint fill boxes with play dough and glass over, put a dimple in the middle area when you press your carbon in. Drill out the the dimple then router with a flush bit the tracks will look perfect.