What is the best front line splitter block for low V bars? (Upgrading my Dreamstick X)

[Kite Dependent]

Hi All,
Looking for some advice from the collective mind on this forum.
So, I have the new Reedin Dreamstick X as a warranty replacement for the V2. I had an issue that was resolved by Reedin/Dealer in 12hr from emailing about it. So credit where it's due, very good customer service!

Basically, the front line splitter block has caused bad wear on the front line splice loop in just 100 days (not 100 days of use, but a good amount) I believe this is due to sand in the splitter block and the block twisting when you hit the quick release. Photo below shows what I am on about.

Note: I did clean the bar after use but I would have come into the beach and gone out again in the same session and not really practical to clean out splitter block all the time.

The photo below shows some ruff edges that have been created and no doubt led to the early demise of my frontline from a few ejects on the side of the window to self-land when no one was about in strong wind.

unnamed (1).png (240.78 KiB) Viewed 6480 times

Also, the image below is my personal take on what is happening when you eject with the bar.
Left image = normal bar use and kite flying. Red arrows show force and direction. All good of course.
Right image = Eject via quick release. Both, mainlines have 50% of load when you eject, and once the flagging line bungee has reached full length the white block will for a short time twist as shown as it travels up to 6 meters with reducing power as kite flag out fully for a 12m kite.

unnamed (2).png (21.33 KiB) Viewed 6480 times

It could be a manufacturing defect and the dealer had not heard of this before but I want to upgrade the white splitter block on my Dreamstick X
I made a review video about this bar which might explain this better.


So, on to the question...What is the BEST front line splitter block for low V bars?

I could use, and more importantly, obtain (in covid times) an Ozone part (below) but the hole in the stopper ball would be too big for the loop to loop knot to not pull through and I would need to put depower rope through the hole as shown. When this part flags out it could twist loads and not put any twisting force on the front line. Which i like

Screenshot at Nov 24 15-32-49.png (53.97 KiB) Viewed 6480 times

Or, maybe a Flysurfer part?

Screenshot at Nov 24 15-40-41.png (32.34 KiB) Viewed 6480 times

Any thoughts?

Cheers, Stu

[BE_Kiter]

I would say: https://shop.northkb.com/north/power-br ... ball-80753

[trendab]

My favorite https://www.kiteattitude.fr/en/21-safet ... -ring.html

[Kite Dependent]

I would say: https://shop.northkb.com/north/power-br ... ball-80753

Looks good part and metal too. Just no stock!

[Orca-N]

Hello KD,

I am pretty sure the Flysurfer solution is the equivalent part to the Reedin one with just other colour and branding.
Flysurfer at this position have coatings at their lines to prevent ("counterreact") the wear.

Regarding the "tilted" position you describe that the cause is releasing situation.
I rather suspect a different front line length. In some cases I have seen different front line lengths up to 10cm (!!).
So its definetly worth checking if not already done.
This wear you show just due to quick-releasing the kite I cannot believe. (only if used for schooling which release very often)

Regarding alternative splitter:
I was also looking for optons and only found the ozone part.
Here I am unsure if the knot which holds the red stopper ball would go through my quick release-hole with secured repeatability.
Or otherwise: if the connection which goes through the quickrelease is still big enough to hold the stopperball.
If so, I would prefer this solution if you start with a new one.
(Maybe the hole in the stopperball has the same diameter as the hole in the bracket...)

I don't see the reason why you want to use the hole instead of the standard position for your depower line (?)
Cabrinha-bracket looks similar to the ozone one by function. Maybe a little lighter.
Don't know the material of cab (Aluminium?) The ozone one is steel.

Anoter option which I didn't like but just mentioning is this one:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3282923 ... 8255%22%7D
I think this one was used from switchkites in their first controller version. So it's possible to realise SFS.

[Orca-N]

I would say: https://shop.northkb.com/north/power-br ... ball-80753

This looks good. Wasn't aware of this one.
And it is super aerodynamical you can win King of the Air with this

[Kite Dependent]

Hello KD,

I am pretty sure the Flysurfer solution is the equivalent part to the Reedin one with just other colour and branding.
Flysurfer at this position have coatings at their lines to prevent ("counterreact") the wear.

Regarding the "tilted" position you describe that the cause is releasing situation.
I rather suspect a different front line length. In some cases I have seen different front line lengths up to 10cm (!!).
So its definetly worth checking if not already done.
This wear you show just due to quick-releasing the kite I cannot believe. (only if used for schooling which release very often)

Regarding alternative splitter:
I was also looking for optons and only found the ozone part.
Here I am unsure if the knot which holds the red stopper ball would go through my quick release-hole with secured repeatability.
Or otherwise: if the connection which goes through the quickrelease is still big enough to hold the stopperball.
If so, I would prefer this solution if you start with a new one.
(Maybe the hole in the stopperball has the same diameter as the hole in the bracket...)

I don't see the reason why you want to use the hole instead of the standard position for your depower line (?)
Cabrinha-bracket looks similar to the ozone one by function. Maybe a little lighter.
Don't know the material of cab (Aluminium?) The ozone one is steel.

Anoter option which I didn't like but just mentioning is this one:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3282923 ... 8255%22%7D
I think this one was used from switchkites in their first controller version. So it's possible to realise SFS.

Cheers Orca-N,

Note: the image on the right showing the twist is only at the moment of ejecting. Front lines are equal length.

Yep, I'm a bit shocked about the wear, hense the upgrade. I had to eject a few times on a kite trip in far north Queensland. Trade winds up there 25 to 35 kts day and night for two weeks.

I'm thinking the hole in the ozone part for the depower to keep orientation the same as the Reedin splitter block. So the front lines want to sit left/right in line with the kite rather that up/down. Flysurfer and now North Power Bracket will all work

[edt]

1 inch nylon block. description of nylon block starts at 1 minute



There is very little wear from using the QR I think the real reason for the wear is that the lines above the V twist and rub together or at least that's what I have found. You might use the QR 5 or 6 times a month but the lines will twist together hundreds of times. The nylon block I suggest might have less wear might have more, but it's simple, works great and costs about $1 to build just get some nylon and drill some holes. If you can't source nylon a 1 inch aluminum block also works but it's heavier.

The ozone v is annoying because you need the stupid red ball



that one is my 4 and 5 line version

I bought a $10 block of nylon and have made 6 control bar V's out of it so far, still have some nylon left.

[kitexpert]

That is very simple part. Plastic is ok for material because it has low friction and it is strong enough. Ozone part is obviously of high quality but you have to pull through other front line - but ok it is not a big deal and it is completely reliable way to do it. I don't see any relevance of in which direction depower line goes through the block and also plastic stopper ball should work just fine. Too tight radius of depower line in block isn't good though.

If lines wear out too fast there is too sharp corner in that part. Should be quite easy to make it rounder with some tool. After years of use it is normal that lines wear out at the loop. Fix is to make new loops in front lines and adjust back lines respectively, or make new loops for them as well.

QR action is not the cause of wear

[ArneB]

This the best one I could find

https://www.versusshop.nl/shop/product/ ... 4579#attr=