What to do with old bar

[Benson]

My 2013 Ocean Rodeo Fusion bar has a few cracks in the chicken loop. I've only used it once or twice since I bought it new so the lines still look nice. I'm not sure if it was rough use or improper storage that wore out the CL.
I'd like to know my options before I spend more money. Does anyone still use this bar? Any suggestions on how to maintain/repair/replace/modify the chicken loop/quick release? I appreciate the simplicity of this chicken loop, but it seems like the looped end rubs on the webbing release tab and the harness hook when the QR is activated. Has this been a problem for anyone?

[Windigo1]

I had one bar with this chicken loop same thing it cracked.. I replace it with another CL from another company that was a very easy thing to do.

[Trent hink]

My old Cabrinha bars did the same thing.

I guess the plastic on chicken loops and center lines has a limited lifespan regardless of use.

[Herman]

I have had a similar CL. From the photo what is cracked is the abrasion cover. The real strength is in the dyneema. If you remove the cover from the small loop the dyneema loop that is left will still engage with the webbing tab.

The cracking may well be caused by chemical deterioration of the polymer used rather than wear ( diffusion of plasticisers and oligamers ). Obviously I can’t tell you what to do because it depends on the load you expect to put through it and the consequences of a failure. At least the dyneema of the small loop would be easy to inspect if it is exposed.

If there are cracks in the main loop or it is not sealed, sand can get in and reduce the life of the dyneema in the loop plus extra abrasion on the crack edges. These can be taped as a temporary measure to keep sand out.

Have a hunt at your local to find someone who understands and repairs this sort of thing. With the right skills it could easily be refurbished to a workable condition but the way forward has to be your decision!

PS I would have thought OR would sell replacement loops?? Just 2 screws to replace??

[evan]

Also good to check if that bar has a single front line flagout.

If I am correct it has only a short double front line flagout, insufficient to kill a kite in stronger winds.

[Benson]

Thanks for the ideas.

I had one bar with this chicken loop same thing it cracked.. I replace it with another CL from another company that was a very easy thing to do.

It seems like all the newer loops have metal ends. What brand did you use?

I have had a similar CL. From the photo what is cracked is the abrasion cover. The real strength is in the dyneema. If you remove the cover from the small loop the dyneema loop that is left will still engage with the webbing tab.

I think I might wear out the dyneema in the small loop if I use it bare. The stitching on the webbing makes a scalloped edge. It also seems like the dyneema would grab on the webbing even more without the tubing to hold its shape.

The cracking may well be caused by chemical deterioration of the polymer used rather than wear ( diffusion of plasticisers and oligamers ). Obviously I can’t tell you what to do because it depends on the load you expect to put through it and the consequences of a failure. At least the dyneema of the small loop would be easy to inspect if it is exposed.

Last time I kited (nine years ago), I think I did one good waterstart, so I won't be trying to jump for a while. The local beginner spot has clean, moderate winds and isn't crowded. It seems like a CL failure in moderate wind shouldn't be a problem if no one is downwind of me. Has anyone had their bridles or lines get tangled after a chicken loop failure?

If there are cracks in the main loop or it is not sealed, sand can get in and reduce the life of the dyneema in the loop plus extra abrasion on the crack edges. These can be taped as a temporary measure to keep sand out.

The main loop has a wide crack. I can see the line and it doesn't seem frayed, but there isn't a way to check for sand inside the tubing. What kind of tape would hold up to water and abrasion?

Have a hunt at your local to find someone who understands and repairs this sort of thing. With the right skills it could easily be refurbished to a workable condition but the way forward has to be your decision!

PS I would have thought OR would sell replacement loops?? Just 2 screws to replace??

I'm still looking for a shop that can replace the CL. I thought it would be nice to have a stainless ring or thimble on the end, but it can't be too big or it would jam in my 1" diameter harness hook. If it's too small, the 3/4" webbing tab won't fit. Only other ideas so far are Gorilla tape and shrink tubing.
OR didn't know of any shops with old loops in stock.

Also good to check if that bar has a single front line flagout.

If I am correct it has only a short double front line flagout, insufficient to kill a kite in stronger winds.

It does have a double line flagout. The mini-fifth line is about 209 cm from the above-bar swivel down to the depower pulley. Would 20 mph be too much for a 9.5 OR Prodigy with a rollover bridle?

[Herman]

My OR CL was an older model with two thinner dyneema lines running through the loop. I ran it with bare dyneema on the engagement loop for a reasonable period before I retired the bar to kite buggy for different reasons. To put it in perspective, I believe some French manufacturers recommended an annual loop change, perhaps due to standards legislation, and I think the bare dyneema and webbing interface would have managed this tour of duty. As already said it would be easy to inspect, maybe try it in a short session and inspect? Don’t forget to inspect the webbing as well as the loop.

Personally I am ok with mini 5th on kites with suitable bridles, some don’t like the system because the longer roll over bridle makes things more susceptible to tip wraps. To check your kite find somebody who understands tethering, and tether to the flag line. You can then see how the kite sits and feel the residual pull. Also you could check with OR for kite and bar compatibility.

Elec insulation tape works as temporary seal. That CL design is easy to repair if you learn to splice and source your own PU or nylon tube. Search pneumatic tube, I prefer PU others Nylon - not much in it! You could also modify it to a SS or low friction wring with the right skills and so it would probably sell on EBay.

[edt]

I don't think anyone wants a modded control bar if you want to sell it don't mod it to single line just list it as is. People like buying things that are stock they don't trust modded gear even if you mod it to be safer. I would do a complete refurb of that bar if you want to keep it like said above switch it to single center replace the tube splice new line as required but that's a bit of work.

[Herman]

Thanks for clarifying Edt. I agree don’t modify if you are going to sell. The fact that is easy to modify or repair is just a reason it would have value to peeps like me. The fact that I don’t think it has a below the bar swivel will be a negative but it will still have value for some imho.

[Benson]

I ran it with bare dyneema on the engagement loop for a reasonable period before I retired the bar to kite buggy for different reasons.

Does this bar work better with a buggy than a board?