Grkite wrote: ↑
Wed Jan 17, 2018 5:51 pm
I used some types of paints during my trials and all somehow reduced the epoxy's bond...Is better to use pigment in the epoxy to give colour... But if you need any colour with 100% opacity ..then you ay need to use alot which is not good. Still I bought once...a type of cans of only black grey and white colours that the opacity 1 achieved with a very little amount. Also have in mind white will be yeloish almost immediatly...
Ok sorry you say you will use skins..so the colour was only for testing probably...or you use it on bottom only? Trying to understand your process of infusion...it can be done only with foam core i suppose...so as epoxy to go through easily to bond the top and bottm skins? Ok I may miss something as I dont use infusion...but curious...
I used ptex 0.8 matt on bottom once..the material is quite hard..very good!. The only issue I believe is the weight! Otherwise this material is for riding rails and no scratches...Also be careful is not easily applied as is hard to bend..
I've also tried paint and have had bad results, i.e. board delaminated on the paint line. Unless you have special paint, paint the outside only but not between the reinforcement layers.
We use a similar approach as on the top of the board, i.e. alutex backing (gives a reasonably opaque and skiny background) with polyester printed (dye sublimation) cloth.
The ptex is 80% transparent, so it looks a little bit milky but otherwise not bad at all.
We use resin infusion, and in the first pic you can see lots of little holes in the foam. There are also channels cut into the foam on the underside, to help with resin flow.
In the first pic you can also see the ptex underneath the first glass layer.
Lastly, you need to do an elevated temp (50-60 deg C) post-cure to get the best bond with the ptex.
Here's some pics where I put the ptex on my split board and the results.