On kitelines, leaders, depower lines, and bridle lines, I just bury and sew 2 lines of stitching about 1-3" long on a 9"long bury. If you use contrasting thread (white line with black thread) you can easily use a seam ripper to undo the splice and adjust for unbalanced stretching if you do not have a good pre-stretching technique. I also utilize the ease of undoing to replace sleeving on the loop. My method of sleeving only covers the loop part, not the splice where the return line is covered by the line coming up to the loop.
I have that hook, but I like the guitar string way better. Actually, I use a piece of .030" stainless steel MIG welding wire. You can also find .023" in the same wire that would be slightly better for thin race lines.
I had access to a real fid set at work, so I took it and went to the store. There I matched the various sizes up against knitting needles. This got me a decent homemade fid set for about $15. You need to cut the ends off at an angle to match what the end of a fid set looks like, then sand smooth. But the anodized knitting needles are way smoother than a real fid set that has not been anodized. And since you get 2 knitting needles in a set, you can make one long and one short fid. The smaller size knitting needles are not hollow, so I just drill a hole in the back end to pull a a sleeve in with.
Should work fine. Bit expensive though for a 1-time job.
These kind of things:Pascale wrote: ↑Thu Nov 08, 2018 6:35 pm
Wasting your money.
Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot], ELI, Google [Bot] and 16 guests