awesome puget. Anyway to change the mixer to make the kite turn faster/slower? (also chime in please foilholio if you know)
For landboarding with the 8m, the direct feel to the kite is positive and flying in low winds the short depower throw works good. But for kitesurfing with the 10m having a smooth longer depower throw is better. I’ll try using the 10m with the longer A lines with the surfboard just to understand if it got more stable and if the depower is too abrupt. And remove/add knots to the amsteel A-lines to see the effects. I was hoping to avoid this, but I suspect I may end up having to rig a more complicated adjustable bridle to move Bs, Cs, and Zs independently. So, I made the diagrams above, hoping to save myself rigging trial & error time, and to verify in theory what should happen with what really happens.For example with (B) Mod1, Mixer A=Z, B=+0.75”, C=+0.5”. If you remove your A extensions and instead, lengthen Z +6" and C +2", you would then have the same mixer test ,(B) Mod1, Mixer A=Z, B=+0.75”, C=+0.5”, but not change the maximum depower or depower limit by way of not altering B. You could achieve the same depower limit, with the bar or trimmer pulling in for 4x what you originally shortened A. For your Mod1 you lengthened A 2.5" that would mean you lost 10" of depower throw, a massive amount!”
What adjustments did you try?PugetSoundKiter wrote: The A15 Pansh kites I got flew fine and when I did some bridle/mixer adjustments the trade-off did not outweigh the benefits.
Check the symmetry higher up as Pansh can make compensations with some bridles for errors in others. It would be good to have it matching at most importantly the canopy but also the mixer.PugetSoundKiter wrote:10m (A=Z, B=2.5” (right side) B=2.75 (left side)
The easiest way to do this is lengthen Z. Z should be your general go to in tuning kites. If you alter A or B you change the depower limit. You may want to do that but you can also do that with the bar. When your depower is reduced the kite loses range, both top end obviously but lowend too as it flys slower and stalls easier.PugetSoundKiter wrote: I tried to reduce the camber to gain stability, sacrificing lift. An easy way to do this was to lengthen the A-Line.
In the end that is all that is important, if you like how it flies. The customization of kites should be purely to how you like them.PugetSoundKiter wrote: the kite to fly good static and it rode well using a landboard.
I am not sure about this. Can you describe it a bit more?PugetSoundKiter wrote: so I tried using it with a surfboard but found out it is unstable when I would sine it and it would pick up speed so I could load it up, it would quickly stall the kite.
You need to check and sort out any asymmetry, from the lines to the canopy.PugetSoundKiter wrote: lengthen both the A-Lines from 46” to 49.5”, this gave me A=Z, B=.75, C=.5 (right) and A=Z, B=.25, C=.5 (left)
Something there is a different length. Most likely B mains or pulley lines, but it could be more. You can tie a knot in the sewn end to make an adjustment on the long part or add a pigtail to the shorter one. You need to check at the canopy though as they may like I said earlier be compensating somewhere else.PugetSoundKiter wrote: Bs are more different, remeasured but not sure why only Bs are more different
Well it appears we have been here before lol.PugetSoundKiter wrote:remember what foilholio said
You should probably only need to adjust Z. Just make pigtails out of a loop of kite line with a figure 8 knot on the end. Easy.PugetSoundKiter wrote: but I suspect I may end up having to rig a more complicated adjustable bridle to move Bs, Cs, and Zs independently
interesting, so just the tip of the canopy gets a higher camber. I'm already using a 2:1 pulley bar and the kite is still too slow.foilholio wrote: ↑Mon Jul 01, 2019 11:36 pmHigher camber will turn faster. If you really want the kite to fly faster through the turn you should alter the tip to be higher camber. You will degrade the overall performance of a kite doing either though. there are many other ways to make a kite turn faster, like longer bar, pulley bar, maybe different mixer and the simplest just pulling on the rear leader lines.
I have used the A15 18m unmodified on a 55cm 2:1 pulley bar and 30m lines. It is good 12-20mph on a twin tip but more fun on my 5’4” Naish Skater powered 12-20mph. Definitely learn the limits of board fins with this combo around 20mph, even with my 6’2”, 200# of leverage. Used a quad fin board too, but powered on a tri fin is more fun. On the A15 12m I changed the Z-Line length but ended up returning to the stock setting as a good compromise. Not much else to share, but I do like the A15 for easy LEI type riding and I had followed your extensive modifications documented here. Instead of trying to improve the lower AR A15, I was going to try and take the higher AR Aurora2 and make it more stable. Hoping to have a better upwind angle kite than the A15, in a smaller size, and easy riding for hydrofoil use.
What I was trying to convey with the stock 10m A2 stalling when loaded up is not that this is unique or a trait of this kite. I would expect to be able to sheet in and stall a kite this size in lower winds, but with the high camber setting when I would sheet out with my long throw bar, the kite would recover from the back stall and shoot too far forward, I suspect due to the high camber/lift. With the kite low it could fall back and recover but flying at a high angle it would overfly and game over.
I’m going to follow your suggestion and go back the original A length and lengthen Z instead and then then make an adjustment to C as needed. I’ll check the symmetry of the bridles and pulley lines. My goal was not to limit depower, just to make it more stable by eliminating overflying. I’ll take note that Bs should appear somewhat slack at the window’s edge. I think I’ll also shorten bar lines from 22m to improve the feel and better observe what is going on at the B, C, and Z connections.foilholio wrote: ↑Tue Jul 02, 2019 7:25 pmYou should probably only need to adjust Z. Just make pigtails out of a loop of kite line with a figure 8 knot on the end. Easy. If you do need to adjust B and C you can add pigtails or just cut the pulley end stitching open and use a bowline knot to adjust.
And you got me curious about the pulley line shrinking scenarios.
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