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What is the best front line splitter block for low V bars? (Upgrading my Dreamstick X)

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Kite Dependent
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Re: R

Postby Kite Dependent » Tue Nov 30, 2021 3:24 am

jmach wrote:
Sat Nov 27, 2021 12:40 am
edt wrote:
Thu Nov 25, 2021 12:32 am
Kite Dependent wrote:
Wed Nov 24, 2021 11:44 pm
You do highlight how much cheaper we could all be kiting with home made bars.
I'm not so sure it's cheaper. You still have to buy lines and the QR itself is really expensive now. So for instance, the QR will run anywhere from $100 to $200, then the lines, which I like to make myself run me about 33 cents a foot so that's over $100 for the lines but typically it will cost more because you end up buying more than you need and can't use the rest, so about $150 for lines, then the chicken leaders run about $1 a foot, you want again more than you need to build a bar because if you get less and it turns out your splice adds more requirement for length than you thought, then it's a disaster, so count on $20 for the chicken line, then $20 for the leaders another $100 for assorted o-rings, cleats, tape to regrip the bar and it totals out to about $440.

It's best just to buy a control bar with a QR you like, then later mod the bar as you like. If you can get the control bar used you also can part it up and that's nice. The best thing about a home made bar is that you get rid of these incredibly annoying problems like that wear you that have described, so you know your control bar works 100% of the time every time.

I think most of us who build bars end up doing it because we get to pick and choose exactly which components we like and usually we don't skimp on the quality of the components because then what's the point?
I've put together a few bars and agree with EDT, it's not really about saving money, it's about getting exactly what you want. I've had excellent results with the Ozone trimmer bracket, wish it didn't have a bead but the setup is very proven and quite solid. I want to give a shout-out to Kiteboarding.com for being a great source for many of the odds and ends needed when putting together a bar or tweaking one. Also, Kite Attitude in France is great too, especially for the hard to source quick release assembly, their 'Aka Chicken Loop' is an excellent QR. Shipping to the U.S. is a bit pricey these days but there's not too many options available for QRs here. I recommend springing for DHL shipping, it's unbelievably fast and reliable.
Another real benefit of building your own bar is how it makes you more aware of how everything works, especially the flag out/safety system. It's definitely not rocket science but I'm amazed how little attention most give it. And one more suggestion, learn to splice, it's easy and opens a world of options.

Hi jmach & EDT
True, none of get into kiting as its a cheap hobby after all, hey.
Yes I'm also prepared to spend extra on the Reedin bar so it suits my requirements.
Agree, splicing is a must, have made my own custom depower and some 6m line extensions too, love how smooth you can get the bury to taper when it is done yourself.

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Re: What is the best front line splitter block for low V bars? (Upgrading my Dreamstick X)

Postby vakiter » Tue Nov 30, 2021 3:28 am

This is a great thread btw. I have seen this problem of wear at this point in several systems .

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Re: What is the best front line splitter block for low V bars? (Upgrading my Dreamstick X)

Postby grigorib » Tue Nov 30, 2021 3:46 am

Kite Dependent wrote:
Tue Nov 30, 2021 2:55 am
grigorib wrote:
Mon Nov 29, 2021 9:53 pm
Both of these are great. I like the Flysurfer one more though - I’ve been using my Best version of it for years and it’s great.
Hi grigorib,
I got an Ozone one now from a mate to try out... she sure is a solid and weighty bit of splitter block, really is a very good design when flagging out, almost no friction/rope burn will happen in my opinion. I have ordered a 16mm Ronstan stopper ball (4mm hole) to go with it... so will see if this works with the Reedin loop to loop knot on the main line to flagging bungee.
To be honest the Reedin flagging bungee is a bit sub par, same elastic as the line winders spliced into in. I will see if the Ozone bungee will run through PU tube as an upgrade too.

Is it possible to send me close up photos of the Flysurfer part from the top and bottom if you have one? (Or anyone else who has it)
I can not find any on the net and keen to see the design in full.

Cheers.
I think I ordered and used this ball for Ozone splitter.
https://kiteboarding.com/proddetail.asp ... opper_ball

I’m not going to be able to get to my bars any soon but the Best/Flysurfer splitter has slightly larger holes, large enough to run a sleeved line end through, which would be impossible with Ozone splitter. On the fixed line it has a rectangular steel o-ring which holds the line

Here are few zoom-ins I could find
Attachments
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C1286903-2757-47E9-BD6A-E5AF8D3E1DAD.jpeg
Last edited by grigorib on Tue Nov 30, 2021 4:01 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: What is the best front line splitter block for low V bars? (Upgrading my Dreamstick X)

Postby vakiter » Tue Nov 30, 2021 4:00 am

viewtopic.php?f=107&t=2408484
See second pic .
A straight up stopper and ring works fine for me . Not sure how much load this particular ring is rated for, I only use for foil, but looks sturdy.

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Re: What is the best front line splitter block for low V bars? (Upgrading my Dreamstick X)

Postby Orca-N » Tue Nov 30, 2021 9:07 am

grigorib wrote:
Tue Nov 30, 2021 3:46 am
.... but the Best/Flysurfer splitter has slightly larger holes, large enough to run a sleeved line end through
For the Flysurfer part I definetly object, as it is dangerous. I have the Flysurfer Splitter on 3 of my bars.
A sleeved line is not possible for the hole which leads to the safety line. This hole is smaller than the hole which goes to the D-Ring.
I tried this recently in different variations. (directly mount of sleeved end and connected)

And I thought, that Flysurfer, Reedin and Eleveight (and Best) use the identical part just different branding/colour (?)

To the mates who want to use it: make sure everything goes through your Quick Release REPEATABLE.
So also after a little "deformation" of the fixing knot below the splitter.
As well as after some wear happened. If the knot doesn't go through you only have about 1.5m of depower after releasing.
Depending on the used lines (thickness) this might not be possible.

Regarding the plastic ball for Ozone I am curious: what material needs to be used?
Or is just every plastic part strong enough to take the pressure?
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grigorib
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Re: What is the best front line splitter block for low V bars? (Upgrading my Dreamstick X)

Postby grigorib » Tue Nov 30, 2021 3:53 pm

I had old set of 30m Peter Lynn lines with sleeved ends used with my Best splitter and holes on that one appear of same diameter. Maybe they changed something.
Can’t speak of material for stopper balls but they certainly hold pressure.

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Re: What is the best front line splitter block for low V bars? (Upgrading my Dreamstick X)

Postby edt » Tue Nov 30, 2021 4:47 pm

The plastic balls definitely vary according to manufacturer I have seen some in aluminum for instance.

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Re: What is the best front line splitter block for low V bars? (Upgrading my Dreamstick X)

Postby Kite Dependent » Wed Dec 01, 2021 12:15 am

I found out the stopper ball I ordered is " Acetal plastic for durability and UV stability"

A quick google...https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyoxymethylene

"Polyoxymethylene (POM), also known as acetal,[2] polyacetal, and polyformaldehyde, is an engineering thermoplastic used in precision parts requiring high stiffness, low friction, and excellent dimensional stability. As with many other synthetic polymers, it is produced by different chemical firms with slightly different formulas and sold variously by such names as Delrin, Kocetal, Ultraform, Celcon, Ramtal, Duracon, Kepital, Polypenco, Tenac and Hostaform."

The below link is an interesting read and I can see why Acetal is a better fit that nylon for kitesurfing application
https://www.newprocess.com/acetal-plast ... n-plastic/

As for Acetal plastic compressive strength prosperities...15,000 psi. Mild still is around 36,000 psi. Don't think even the heaviest of riders would need to worry
Screenshot at Dec 01 08-46-14.png
Screenshot at Dec 01 08-46-14.png (93.5 KiB) Viewed 549 times
There is a few comments about how annoying the stopper ball is in a bar setup. I have not had a bar with one before, can someone elaborate on the annoyance caused please?
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Orca-N
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Re: What is the best front line splitter block for low V bars? (Upgrading my Dreamstick X)

Postby Orca-N » Wed Dec 01, 2021 7:48 am

grigorib wrote:
Tue Nov 30, 2021 3:53 pm
... my Best splitter and holes on that one appear of same diameter. Maybe they changed something.
Ok. Then at least the Best-Part is different.
Took pictures of the Flysurfer Part, just to show the holes are different diameter "from the opening" and the more narrow one has another small hole further down which is the bottleneck for the lines to go through. Backside of this bottleneck has a flange for the knot.

Not the best pictures but I think they show different diameter.

@Kite Dependent,
Very interessting about the plastic material. Thank you.
Sounds like this might also be used for other plastic parts eg. of the quick release.
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Re: What is the best front line splitter block for low V bars? (Upgrading my Dreamstick X)

Postby Herman » Wed Dec 01, 2021 9:22 am

I don’t see how the Flysurfer/Best part is any more dangerous than any other splitter/bracket that relies on a calibrated hole as a stopper. Imho, providing the stopper knot does not pull through or jam, the problematic issue is more to do with the subsequent fairleads in the qr and any tubing or am I missing something?

PS in my experience the jammer knot stays in place in the plastic block splitters but ones with stopper balls do not. Just need to manage the slack flag line until tension is applied, not particularly annoying to me but something to be aware of imho.


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