A few more comments. Sorry, I am infected with material science...
I'm currently using lanolin, because it does a decent job of controlling corrosion and you can wipe it off, or use a solvent to help remove it.
FluidFilm, lanolin based, is the most popular product used as a spray-on vehicle undercoating. It's not the best for that application, CRC makes a better Heavy Duty Corrosion inhibitor, but it's better than nothing.
Tef-Gel is probably the best for corrosion control, but if you drop a screw in the dirt/sand it's almost impossible to clean. No normal solvent is good at removing it. Ask me how I know. This is what got me to try the sample of lanolin Slingshot supplied with my most recent foil kit. However, Tef-Gel is still the best for those who never, or very infrequently, disassemble their foil.
Any of the copper, nickel or moly based anti-seize compounds will also do a wonderful job, but they are very messy.
IMHO, it's like splitting hairs about what oil to use in your vehicle. The more important issue is how frequently you change your oil and doing so consistently. Salt water use and high humidity mean more frequent maintenance, compared to freshwater and dry climate use.
Ironically, frequent assembly and disassembly means the fasteners will wear the threaded holes and inserts. All it takes is a few grains of sand in the grease/lube and you created grinding compound to speed-up the wear on the threads. So... part of the ritual is periodically wiping off the fasteners and reapplying grease. Maybe also wipe out [and solvent clean] the threaded holes, if your fasteners come out with dirty and dark grease.
Aluminum, from a galvanic perspective, is the most vulnerable of all the materials used in foil kits. A properly anodized aluminum part will help control corrosion, but the anodizing can and will eventually be worn through. Blind and threaded holes [which can trap water] in aluminum fuselages are the problem areas to watch, rinse and lube. Same thing for those extruded aluminum masts, which can trap quite a bit of water in the passages. And are any of the plugs/seals, which manufacturers use to plug those passages, leaking? If so, more water to stay trapped inside and contribute to corrosion.
One more thing I just recently discovered... Don't assume your new and shiny kit is as clean as it can be. Maybe rinse/blow out the threaded holes and swirl a q-tip in the insert to make sure debris from the manufacturing process isn't still trapped in the hole(s).
End of sermon, -Ciao
JakeFarley wrote: ↑
Wed May 25, 2022 1:17 am
Thanks to all for their recommendations. I really like lanolin as it does not come off easily (my hands smell like sheep
). I found a lanolin based lubricant at Ace Hardware called Lanox MX4 that I am going to try.